Burlington

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Baker Meghan Brickner Turns Travel Into Pastry

Posted By on Sat, Oct 22, 2016 at 10:00 AM

Apple cinnamon piroshki and Anjou-Amaretto polenta cake - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Apple cinnamon piroshki and Anjou-Amaretto polenta cake
I usually say that I don't have a sweet tooth, but last Saturday, sitting on the ledge of the fountain at Burlington City Hall Park, I ate an apple-cinnamon piroshki from the Nomadic Oven stand. With the farmers market buzzing around me, I even closed my eyes, savoring the unfurling pastry curl by curl.

 The insides of the Russian-style sticky bun were bloated with apples. Its hard-baked edges were laced with coffee cream. When I got to the core, I ate it in one slow bite — a ceremonious process akin to uncovering an artichoke heart.

I returned to the Nomadic Oven to chat with its baker-owner, Meghan Brickner. When I left her, it was with another piroshki and a slice of Amaretto-polenta cake dressed with Anjou pears.

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Thursday, September 15, 2016

A Taste of Burlington's Budding Gelateria: Shy Guy

Posted By on Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 7:20 AM

Paul Sansone and Tim Elliot of Shy Guy Gelato - NICK BUCCI PHOTOGRAPHY
  • Nick Bucci Photography
  • Paul Sansone and Tim Elliot of Shy Guy Gelato
On a recent Friday, I stopped at Shy Guy Gelato’s newly opened scoop shop at 457 St. Paul Street, five minutes before closing. In June I had  previewed the gelateria’s early-July opening, psyched at the prospect of a boutique gelato business churning daily-made scoops on my route home from work.

What’s more, the Shy Guys behind the biz are Tim Elliot, cofounder of Burlington’s popular lunch spot, Zabby and Elf’s Stone Soup, and Paul Sansone, an Italian American Vermonter who gained his culinary training in Abruzzo, Italy. The prospects looked good.

I had gelato on my mind since 9 a.m. the previous day, but a cooking event on Friday had me heading to St. Paul Street precipitously close to 9 p.m. — closing time. But I was determined to make it.

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Thursday, July 7, 2016

Dining on a Dime: Three Tacos for $11 at Taco Gordo

Posted By on Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 3:44 PM

The Bean, Tinga, and Carnitas Tacos at Taco Gordo - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • The Bean, Tinga, and Carnitas Tacos at Taco Gordo
Picture this: I’m sitting on a concrete stoop near Valencia and 24th Street in the Mission district of San Francisco. It’s just past 1 a.m., and the fluorescent lights of my favorite taqueria cast an off-lime glow on the paper plate perched on my lap. Two chicken tinga tacos — bloated with smoky meat, radish coins, cilantro and white onion — are halfway finished.

I devoured those tacos in five hulking bites shortly after finishing a demanding Saturday night grill shift at an upscale Hayes Valley restaurant where I cooked on the line. Perhaps it was the fatigue, or the fluorescent lights, but I’ve never tasted tacos so damn satisfying.

Fast-forward to two years later, on the corner of Church and Cherry streets in downtown Burlington. I’m hungry, but I’m not looking for tacos. To be honest, I gave up the quest when I returned to the East Coast, where the bagels are unmatched and the maple syrup is dark and glorious, but the tacos tend to be flabby replicas of the ones I enjoyed during my brief stay out west.

Then I find Taco Gordo, the wheeled, wooden food cart on Church Street Marketplace.

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Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Alice Eats: Dim Sum at A Single Pebble

Posted By on Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 12:32 PM

133 Bank St., Burlington, 865-5200
It's the lazy Susan! - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • It's the lazy Susan!
There are sacrifices involved in living in Vermont, to be sure. I recently wrote about the hardship of life without a good Indian buffet nearby. While I was stuck home writing a book through the summer and fall, I haven't had time to get to Montréal for dim sum. It's been painful. On Sunday, I finished that book, but I also couldn't wait anymore. I headed to A Single Pebble for its version of the comfort-food assault I'd been missing.

I'd only been once before, years ago when I still had the alternative of Zen Gardens, still my go-to for authentic Chinese, though it no longer serves dim sum. Unlike the format at Zen Gardens that had involved ordering specific dishes from a menu, A Single Pebble's method is more a micro version of what one would see in Hong Kong — or Montréal. Rather than multiple carts full of goodies, a single server brings forth a basket with a few revolving specialties as they emerge from the kitchen. She makes a check mark on your bill under the item's price each time you order.

Most of what we chose were in the "dumpling category," meaning they cost $5.99 a pop. Big-city dim sum eaters will likely cringe at this expense. I had to remind myself repeatedly that most of the dim sum I've eaten has been made from anonymous animals stacked on a truck from who knows where. At a Single Pebble, owner Chiuho Duval has local animals raised specifically for the restaurant at at LaPlatte River Angus Farm. 

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Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Alice Eats: Wicked Wings

Posted By on Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 1:32 PM

119 Pearl Street, Essex Junction, 879-7111
Wicked WIngs
  • Wicked WIngs
It's hard to miss the devilish bird with one yellow eye. Though the other eye is red, apparently the victim of a computer's auto-fill setting, you get the idea: This steroidal rooster — or whatever that horned avian is supposed to be — certainly gets his point across: There are wings here, they are hot and you should eat them. Sold, Wicked Wings. I think we have an understanding.

The space at 119 Pearl Street has been a revolving door in recent years, with incarnations including a Southeast Asian spot I really liked and a pizza place I didn't quite so much. In buildings such as this one, I always hope for a restaurant that will find its "forever home," breaking the "curse." But it's harder when the modest surroundings retain vestiges of previous tenants. 

On a Sunday evening, the space was about half full, but locals ducked in for take-out. Those who stuck around seemed to be there for the game, shown on several flatscreen TVs. All had giant platters of wings, which I soon learned was really the point.

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Thursday, May 15, 2014

Alice's Latest Obsession: Mint Chip Smoothie at Eco Bean & Juice

Posted By on Thu, May 15, 2014 at 3:23 PM

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I'm an obsessive person. When I was a kid, I flitted every few years from one life's purpose to another: the works of Stephen Sondheim, Victor Hugo, the Burke and Hare murders. I was nothing if not eclectic. As a grown-up food writer, I'm slightly better adjusted, but when I taste something truly special, it happens all over again.

Such was the case a few months ago when I had my first Mint Chip smoothie at Eco Bean & Juice in Burlington. In the depths of winter, I needed somewhere to stop after a spinning class at REV. I'd never thought of myself as a "smoothie person," but my mind was open — I'd never considered myself a spinning person, either.

As a lifelong devotee of mint chocolate chip ice cream (I still swear by the ones at Baskin Robbins and La Crémaillère in Bedford, N.Y., my lowbrow and highbrow childhood favorites), the choice was a no-brainer. Raspberry-chia-peach and Nuts About Acai — made with acai, berries, peanut butter and protein powder  — sounded attractive. But any foodstuff with fresh mint high on the ingredient list is my first choice.

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Thursday, March 13, 2014

Menu and Chef Details for Farmhouse Group's Newest Endeavors

Posted By on Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 1:31 PM

Slicing steak at Guild Tavern - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Slicing steak at Guild Tavern
The Farmhouse Group's latest project, Pascolo Ristorante, will debut in early May, says chef-partner Phillip Clayton. In anticipation of the Italian restaurant's opening, he has hired an executive chef and sous-chef to get the ball of pasta dough rolling.

Opening Guild & Company (now Guild Tavern) sous-chef Kevin Sprouse has returned to Vermont to take on the role of executive chef at Pascolo. In the interim, he gained seafood experience at Blue Point on North Carolina's Outer Banks. "He was looking to come back to the area right around the time we started searching for an executive chef for Pascolo," says Clayton of the Culinary Institute of America grad.

Sprouse's sous-chef will be Brattleboro native Michael Moranski. Most recently at chef Sean Brock's Nashville sequel to his famed Charleston restaurant, Husk, Moranski's Nashville career also included farm-to-table eatery Flyte World Dining & Wine and his own Sunday brunch pop-up at the Nashville Farmers Market, the Speckled Hen. 

Meanwhile, a new executive chef is also onboard at Guild Tavern, longtime Trattoria Delia chef de cuisine Bruce Stewart.

Why not place the chef best known for Italian food at Pascolo? "Bruce’s skill set extends well beyond Italian food, and he’s really excited about the opportunity to spread his wings a little bit and explore different types of cuisine," Clayton explains. "Kevin and Mike both have a passion for Italian food and great experience with it."

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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Trader Joe's Will Open in South Burlington Store on May 16

Posted By on Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 4:11 PM

Trader Joe's in Connecticut - WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
  • Wikimedia Commons
  • Trader Joe's in Connecticut

The Trader Joe's that has been taking shape on Dorset Street in South Burlington will open on Friday, May 16, according to a press release issued by the company early this morning.

The 12,800-square-foot store is a typical size for the chain, and will sport the same island motif as its other 400-plus stores. Patrons can probably also expect the same eclectic assortment of food and drink, which can range from dark-chocolate-covered edamame and cheap red wine to salad greens, almond milk, flowers and vitamins. 

Trader Joe's was founded in California in 1958, and half of its stores are in that state. The South Burlington store was developed by Montpelier's Malone Properties, and underwent a lengthy permitting process before construction began last summer. No word yet on exactly how many "crew members" — aka staff — the chain will hire to run the store, but last year a local developer estimated about 60. 

The store is a stone's throw away from Healthy Living Market and Café  and one of a handful of new locations that will open this year — including stores in Boise, Boca Raton and Tampa.

South Burlington's Trader Joe's will be open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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Friday, February 21, 2014

Slovenia Invades Vermont — Buffet-Style

Posted By on Fri, Feb 21, 2014 at 5:22 PM

I would be surprised if any other food critic writes more about the cuisine at area universities than I do, but I can't help it. The University of Vermont hosts two of my favorite annual food events. Judging the Battle of the Campus chefs each year, the skills of the dining hall staff impress me every time. Last year's visit from Swedish chef Göran Päandel Berggren opened my eyes to Sodexo's Global Chef program.

Representative produce, including a melon carved by chef Marin
  • Representative produce, including a melon carved by chef Marin

This year, Slovenian chef Božidar Marin topped Berggren's few offerings by taking over Harris-Millis Unlimited Dining last night. Books on Slovenia crowded a table near the front of the dining hall and native music filled the air. The deli station held two whole-roasted suckling pigs as well as Vermont and European meats and cheeses. Every dish at each of the nine stations was a product of Marin's homeland. A one-night-only Slovenian buffet in Burlington? ArtsRiot, take note. 

Bela Krajina-style meat dumplings with Alpine Herdsman potatoes
  • Bela Krajina-style meat dumplings with Alpine Herdsman potatoes

There was a long line at the Mansfield Grill station, which is not uncommon. But usually it's for burgers and fried chicken sandwiches, not for fried meat dumplings from Slovenia's southeastern corner, a region known as Bela Krajina, or White Carniola.

The garlicky pork patties were coated in a batter not unlike thicker tempura, then fried to a golden brown. Imagine a deep-fried hamburger, then multiply it at least a couple of times. The delicious indulgence included a side of Alpine Herdsman Potatoes, a dish not unlike gratin dauphinois, but with onions, bacon and sour cream adding a Germanic taste.

That's only part of what defines Slovenian flavors, though. The small country is surrounded by Austria and Italy in the west and Hungary and Croatia in the east. A mix of specialties from all four makes up the hearty cuisine.

Risotto with zucchini
  • Risotto with zucchini

Risotto with chunks of zucchini meshed Italian Parmesan with the pumpkinseed oil popular in Austria for a delicious, wholly Slovenian dish. The arborio rice had turned mushy under the dining hall heat lamps, but the buttery rice tasted so damn good, it didn't matter that the essential bite was missing.

Sea bass with mashed lemon potatoes
  • Sea bass with mashed lemon potatoes

Pumpkinseeds appeared again coating crispy sea bass. The fish itself, dressed in julienned carrots and celery,  didn't have the big flavor of other dishes, but the pile of mashed potatoes beneath it did. The creamy spuds were flavored strongly with lemon and mixed with sour cream. It was like the flavor photo negative of most fish and potato dishes.

Pohorje hot pot
  • Pohorje hot pot

My favorite savory selections were a pair of stews. A pasta and bean soup called pašta fižol was a thicker, meatier take on Italian pasta e fagioli. Just a hint of acid complemented the smoke emanating from thick chunks of North Country Smokehouse bacon.

As I'm a great lover of Polish food, the Slovenian version of hunters' stew, Pohorje hot pot, reminded me of bigos with beans instead of sauerkraut. In a garlicky red wine sauce, beef pork and venison were braised to tender perfection along with potatoes, mushrooms, bacon and carrots, then studded with chewy barley. If I hadn't already eaten several meals of heavy food, I would have gone back for seconds. But I still had to eat dessert!

I wolfed down the bled crmada so quickly that I didn't even photograph it. It was that delicious. Somewhere between a trifle and bread pudding, the sweet consisted of vanilla and chocolate sponge layered with vanilla custard and softened raisins. Rum simple syrup and carob made the whole thing so moist, the slices simply couldn't hold together. No matter. I ate until I could eat no more. Luckily, a Global Chef comes but once a year. 

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Monday, June 18, 2012

Grazing: Wine on Tap

Posted By on Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 2:42 PM

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Gut instinct might tell you to stay away from wine in a box, but you’d only be half right: Boxed wines have been improving, though some are still god-awful.

Wine in kegs, however, are way ahead of the game. Often, restaurants must eat the cost of wine that oxidizes in the bottle, such as a slightly unusual varietal opened for a glass pour and never ordered again. This is partly why many wine-by-the-glass lists tend to resemble each other. (K-J Chardonnay, anyone?)

Enter kegged wine. Even if the clunkiness of a beer keg seems at odds with the elegance of wine, tapping vino in an airtight container keeps ruinous oxygen at bay and a batch of wine fresher, longer. It's also eminently "green," cutting down on glass waste.

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