Farms and Agriculture

Thursday, June 2, 2016

Chef, Farmer, Eater: More Talk With Food Writer Ruth Reichl

Posted By on Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 8:00 PM

Ruth Reichl co-teaching at Sterling College - COURTESY OF BEANA BERN
  • Courtesy of Beana Bern
  • Ruth Reichl co-teaching at Sterling College

This week’s issue of Seven Days features an interview with renowned food writer Ruth Reichl. Last week, I met Reichl at Sterling College in Craftsbury Common, where she spent three days co-teaching a summer course called “Food Writing From the Farm” at the college’s School of the New American Farmstead.

There wasn’t enough space to run the entire interview in print. Here are extended questions and answers from our front-porch conversation on the Sterling College campus:

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Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Alice Eats: Farm Cart at Shelburne Farms

Posted By on Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 12:59 PM

1611 Harbor Road, Shelburne, 985-8686

My dining companion
  • My dining companion

Sometimes, you feel like brunch at Shelburne Farms. But that craving can't be satisfied last-minute — reservations are necessary well in advance. And not all of us want to pay $14 for a veggie hash, anyway.


Luckily, there's a lower-cost but equally ultra-local option. In front of the Farm Barn, a food-truck-style set-up known as the Farm Cart offers a menu of sandwiches, salads and soup. And since seating is at gnarled wood picnic tables in an open field, you may be joined for lunch by a chicken or two, as I was. 

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Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Welch Springs to Cheesemakers' Defense

Posted By on Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 11:19 PM

Cabot clothbound cheese aging in Vermont on wooden boards. - FLICKR/SISTERBEER

On Saturday, Wisconsin's Cheese Underground blog broke news that the FDA had reinterpreted a food safety law, in effect outlawing the centuries-old practice of aging cheese on wooden boards.

The post unleashed a fury in the nation's artisan cheese community, and food bloggers responded in kind, posting articles with gloom-and-doom headlines such as "FDA May Destroy American Artisan Cheese Industry" (Forbes) and "The FDA’s Misguided War on Bacteria That Make Cheese Taste Good" (Slate).  

If the policy sticks, it could have dire consequences for Vermont's artisan cheese industry, costing small, family-run businesses millions, should they be required to replace wooden aging shelving with stainless steel or another material. 

But Vermont Congressman Peter Welch says in a phone interview with Seven Days that he plans to put the kibosh on the issue before it impacts local creameries. "We've got to stop this dead in its tracks," he says. "The cheesemakers are rightfully alarmed, and the FDA has issued a statement that creates [a lot of] ambiguity and uncertainty. There's just no reason to ban — or to suggest the possibility of banning — wood boards on which to age cheese." 

Welch calls the policy "a catastrophic situation in the making ... The reason I say catastrophic is, if you make our artisan cheesemakers get rid of their wood and replace it with stainless steel, [it'll be] enormously expensive." The congressman also foresees consequences extending far beyond the borders of our little state: "This is the mother of all trade wars with Europe. Their cheesemakers use wood [for aging], and they would be prohibited from exporting that cheese to the U.S.,  and then obviously that would create a retaliatory response. So this is the mother of all dumb ideas, and we've gotta stop it." 

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Friday, May 2, 2014

An April Foodie Scrapbook

Posted By on Fri, May 2, 2014 at 7:20 AM

With the arrival of May, I'm expecting to see a fresh start here at the Seven Days food desk. Between planning Vermont Restaurant Week, putting out the annual 7 Nights magazine and losing my longtime partner in crime, Corin Hirsch, I have never been busier than I was in April. 

In fact, I was so busy that I didn't find the time to blog about two major events that catalyzed Vermont foodies last month. On April 3 and 4, Chez Panisse owner and Slow Food pioneer Alice Waters visited Vermont from California. Two weeks later, a pair of "Chopped" champions showed off their Food Network-tested skills in a culinary battle in Montpelier.

As we venture into May and look forward to summer, I want to share some spring memories.

Onion confit, cabbage and cheddar panade in the style of Zuni Café's Judy Rodgers. Served with root veggie slaw and the season's first spring greens
  • Onion confit, cabbage and cheddar panade in the style of Zuni Café's Judy Rodgers. Served with root veggie slaw and the season's first spring greens

As exciting as it was to meet Waters, lunch at Burlington's Intervale Center was also an enjoyable state of the union for local foodies to meet, greet and realize how far we've come.

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Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Three Penny Taproom Debuts All-American New Menu

Posted By on Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 2:11 PM

The Hasslehoff Burger is best enjoyed shirtless.
  • The Hasslehoff Burger is best enjoyed shirtless.
Hungry for a Hasselhoff Burger? The $34 patty is cooked well done and topped with ketchup, then served on the bathroom floor. "The celebrity price is in line with the celebrity experience," says a representative for Montpelier's Three Penny Taproom, which debuted a new spring menu today.

The source told Seven Days that the new menu was designed to keepThree Penny in line with popular New York restaurants, such as Guy Fieri's landmark Guy's Kitchen & Bar.

Starting today, Three Penny guests will be welcomed to "Flavor Town" with a new take on the cheese plate. Kraft Singles, Cheetos or Easy Cheese are each available for $9. Larger parties may want to indulge in all three for $15, served with a side of ketchup.

Waist watchers can stick to the salad menu. The Jell-O salad is composed of lime gelatin, canned pineapple and artisanal marshmallows, while the taco salad features Doritos and jarred salsa.

Since Three Penny is ultimately a beer destination, snacks and sides are an important addition to a can of Schlitz or Olde English 800. Irish Nachos make the most of our Blarney-kissin' cousins' cuisine with boiled waffle fries, Kilkenny jalapeños and a Guinness drizzle. An original dish, Pigs in a Biskit, features pigs-in-a-blanket, crusted with Chicken in a Biskit crackers.

One sweet snack is appropriate as a starter, side or dessert. A bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch will run you $6. Add milk for just $17 more.

We look forward to trying Three Penny's hip new fare soon, with or without a shirt.

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Thursday, March 20, 2014

Chewing the (Local, Organic) Fat With Alice Waters

Posted By on Thu, Mar 20, 2014 at 12:10 PM

  • Gilles Mingasson
  • Alice Waters
Alice Waters will be visiting Vermont early next month. She'll speak at Sterling College's Dunbar Hall on April 3 at 6:30 p.m. But she isn't just a celebrity chef, restaurateur and Slow Food pioneer passing through on a press tour. Waters has New England connections: Her daughter, Fanny, attended the Mountain School in Vershire, and Waters herself has an honorary degree from Dartmouth College. 

Most importantly, she has friends in Vermont. The first leg of her tour will be under the guidance of famous food writer and sometime Northeast Kingdom resident Marian Burros. After her visit to Sterling, Waters will tour Burlington's Intervale Center with its community relations manager, Joyce Cellars.

Spearheading such events has been Cellars' job when other luminaries, such as Mark Bittman, came to town. But this visit will be special. According to Waters, "[Cellars] came to work at Chez Panisse when she was very young. She was my right arm."

Waters is not only a restaurant luminary but an activist: Her Edible Schoolyard Program has gained traction in bringing real food to K-12 schools, and she hopes to see the movement expand to schools and hospitals across the country. 

In anticipation of her whirlwind tour, we checked in with Waters about Vermont cuisine, food ethics and eating shoes.

SEVEN DAYS: What brings you to Vermont?
ALICE WATERS: I think there are a lot of things that bring me to Vermont. Sterling is certainly a place that I’ve heard about for a long time from Marian Burros. She just wants me to see the way the curriculum works, the way food is served, and I’m very, very interested in that, of course. 

I also have a very, very good friend, Joyce Cellars at the Intervale. She is connected with Slow Food Vermont, and they're very excited to have me come and sign books and talk the talk.

I guess I always have these big visions of what can happen there. I’ve thought for a very long time that Vermont is the state that is really ready for edible education in the public schools — to officially get [to a point] to feed all children real food for school lunch would be an irresistible model for this country. 

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Thursday, March 13, 2014

Two Vermonters Are Among Who's Who of Food & Beverage Inductees

Posted By on Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 3:19 PM

Ed Behr
  • Ed Behr
The James Beard Foundation announced its 2014 Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America inductees this afternoon. Of the six recognized this year, four are chefs, including New Orleans legend John Besh and David Chang of the international Momofuku brand. Only two are writers, both of whom are Vermont residents.

"These four influential chefs and two talented journalists represent the best of the best in our culinary world," said president of the James Beard Foundation Susan Ungaro in a press release. "They join a prestigious group of over 200 people who have made a significant impact in how Americans think about food."

St. Johnsbury author Ed Behr is no stranger to the James Beard Foundation. He's even blogged for the culinary association's website. But the international speaker and founder of magazine the Art of Eating wasn't expecting a call from New York's Beard House last week. "It wasn't anything that was remotely in my mind," Behr tells Seven Days.

"I'm actually shocked," says multiple James Beard Foundation Award winner Barry Estabrook of Ferrisburgh. He also got the call last week, but was sworn to secrecy until now. "This is a great day for Vermont. It's a state full of wonderful food writers and I sort of accept this on behalf of all them," he says.

Behr says he is especially surprised to see himself and Estabrook awarded the same year because most Beard honorees come from big cities. "I represent the point of view that is not a restaurant point of view," he says. "Beard restaurants are few and far between [in Vermont]." He suggests that his and Estabrook's recognition may point to a greater awareness of nature and connection to the land in the country's big-name, mainstream food culture.

Both men will receive their awards at Lincoln Center’s David H. Koch Theater at the black-tie James Beard Foundation Awards Gala on May 5.

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Thursday, February 6, 2014

Pushing 'Good Food' at Vermont Law School

Posted By on Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:26 PM


It's no secret that food sells, especially when it comes to magazines. Yet the striking blueberry pie that appears on the cover of Vermont Law School's Loquitur — as well as the picture of dean Marc Mihaly sautéeing a veggie omelette — promise something different than recipes within. 

The entire Winter 2013 issue of Loquitur, VLS' alumni magazine, is devoted to food — "Good Food," as the cover promises — as well as the people who work to grow, make and protect it.

“We focused this issue of Loquitur on food for several reasons," writes Peter Glenshaw, VLS' director of communications, in an email. "Our faculty and alumni are actively engaged in this sector, and with the Center for Agriculture and Food Systems at Vermont Law, we are now seeing a new generation of students express a deep interest in the topic."

Besides the usual alumni news, this Loquitur highlights VLS graduates who have become farmers or food producers; a piece about how the legal needs of the farmers and producers might create a new crop of law-related jobs (written by Ben Hewitt, author of The Town That Food Saved); and a profile of VLS' one-year-old Center for Agriculture and Food Systems, which is developing food-ag curriculum for students and advocacy and policy guidance for farmers and food producers.

"Food offers a good platform to convey the importance of legal education and the power that law has on something we do every day — eat!" adds Glenshaw.

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Friday, January 31, 2014

7 Questions For: Richard McCarthy, Executive Director of Slow Food USA

Posted By on Fri, Jan 31, 2014 at 10:53 PM


This weekend, the brand-new executive director of Slow Food USA, Richard McCarthy, will tour some of Burlington's culinary hotspots — the Farmers Market, the Intervale South End Kitchen and Hen of the Wood among them.

Why is he here? This year, Slow Food Vermont was one of the top four U.S. chapters in terms of new membership; McCarthy's visit is a reward of sorts.

"I have been so proud of our chapter for the past five years, coming up with good, clean and fair programming for all in Vermont," writes Mara Welton, co-owner of the Intervale's Half Pint Farm and the leader of Slow Food Vermont. "I'm in awe when I reflect on the growth of our chapter, the awareness of Slow Food increasing, and all of our events having such an amazing response. It will be really wonderful to share that with the man himself."

Slow Food USA is a branch of Slow Food International, an organization founded in Italy in 1989 with the goal of preserving local food traditions — or, in Slow Food's words, "to counter the rise of fast food and fast life."

Millions of people worldwide now count themselves as Slow Food members, even as the organization has gone through growing pains with regards to its mission.

McCarthy joined Slow Food in 2001, a few years after working with neighbors and growers to create New Orleans' Crescent City Farmers Market in 1995.

On the eve of his visit, McCarthy took some time to answer a few questions.

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Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Sandor Katz to Teach Fermentation at Sterling College

Posted By on Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 6:22 PM


When Sandor Katz, author of the James Beard Foundation Award-winning The Art of Fermentation, spoke at Sterling College last spring, he attracted a standing-room-only crowd. Now he's returning to the institution, this time as a teacher.

Katz, also known as Sandorkraut, will be at Sterling from July 7 through 18 to teach "Fermentation with Sandor Katz."

According to Christian Feuerstein, Sterling's director of communications, "He is going to be available to [help students] learn fermentation one on one." Topics covered will include vegetable fermentation; making tonic beverages; culturing molds; and fermenting oils, legumes, grains and nuts. Of course, the New York Times-bestselling author of Wild Fermentation and The Revolution Will Not Be Microwaved will include his namesake sauerkraut among the foods in which he shares his expertise.

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