home vineyard in Barnard for lunch. It’s still early. By noon, the table will be decked in checkered tablecloth and strewn with vine leaves, Queen Anne’s lace and herbs from the garden. Long-necked bottles of field blend rosé and La Crescent whites will be tucked in an old washbasin with ice for chilling. Barber will slice thick tiles of homemade pancetta, and the guys from Shacksbury Cider
and Fable Farm
will arrive with bottles of cider in tow for tasting.
But for now, in the sleepy morning hour, Barber leads me to his porch overlooking the mountains for a glass of water and a piece of grape cake in the kitchen.
, the lauded wine writer, emerges from Barber's guest room with a notepad and camera. To call Feiring a “lauded wine writer” is an understatement, and I’m momentarily tongue-tied (which I attribute to careful chewing of the grape cake). An open advocate of natural wine, Feiring is a significant voice in the wine world as a writer for publications such as Time
magazine, the New York Times
, New York Magazine
, Forbes Traveler
, the LA Times
and the San Francisco Chronicle
. She has three of her own books and just finished a fourth, which she calls “a most unusual wine guide” that she’s “very glad to be rid of — it was grueling to write.”
There’s a James Beard Foundation Award in her history as well, but the laurel I like best comes from the San Francisco Bay Guardian
, which has dubbed Feiring “the high priestess of natural wines.”
Caleb Barber greets me at my car window as I pull up to