Change of Taste | Food News | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice
Pin It
Favorite

Change of Taste 

Side Dishes: New chef transforms Rustico's

Since it opened in the Essex Shoppes & Cinema in June 2010, Rustico’s has been known for its handmade pastas and family-friendly Italian comfort food. New chef Brent Leary plans to keep it that way — while adding plenty of extras. Leary started at Rustico’s last month, but when his wife and general manager Stacy Anne Leary joined the team, their vision of a “regional, extremely intimate local cucina” began to fall into place.

The chef promises guests will still be able to get their pomodoro over housemade linguine, but with the option of “L’Amante-style food,” he says, referring to the upscale Burlington eatery. This is likely to be no idle boast. Leary is a former New England Culinary Institute instructor who calls Bluebird Tavern’s Michael Clauss his best friend. He was planning to return to the Inn at Shelburne Farms restaurant as David Hugo’s sous chef before Rustico’s owners, Peter and Jessica Edelmann, snapped him up.

Rustico’s used local produce from the start, but Leary has upped the proportions. He buys 90 percent of his produce locally and says, “I feel very strongly about that farmer-chef relationship. I really believe it’s a key to your health to eat organically and eat fresh.”

Leary buys only local, prime beef for the steaks he dry-ages at the restaurant himself. He serves the 16-ounce PT Farm ribeye with homemade gnocchi and marchand de vin sauce.

For vegetarians, the chef gets particularly creative with a “mock bone marrow” vegetable trio. The dish features a beet, a celery root and a squash filled with their own pureed insides, mixed with local curds and cream, and served with traditional sides of parsley salad and capers. “They’re roasted on top and fatty and smooth in the middle,” describes Leary.

Whatever he’s making, Leary says it’s important to him to retain his classical French techniques. He admits that, because of his uncompromising standards, prices at the restaurant have risen by a third. However, Leary feels certain it’s worth it. “I peel my own tomatoes and make tomato sauce,” he says. “We do everything from scratch.”

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

Pin It
Favorite

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Bio:
AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Seven Days moderates comments in order to ensure a civil environment. Please treat the comments section as you would a town meeting, dinner party or classroom discussion. In other words, keep commenting classy! Read our guidelines...

Note: Comments are limited to 300 words.

foodie poll

What do you cook in early spring?

  • Lots of pasta, potatoes and other carb-heavy stuff.
  • Winter things: squash, root veggies, the like.
  • I embrace non-local produce and go all-in for mangoes, baby-green salads and avocado toast.
  • I'm all about the early-spring salad: endives, radicchio and other bitter greens with shaved roots and eggs!
  • All of the above!

View Results

Latest in Food News

Recent Comments

Social Club

Like Seven Days contests and events? Join the club!

See an example of this newsletter...

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2017 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Website powered by Foundation