Juni's Chef Strikes Out on His Own | Food News | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice
Pin It

Juni's Chef Strikes Out on His Own 

Side Dishes

click to enlarge Pulled pork sandwich from Shady's Deli
  • Pulled pork sandwich from Shady's Deli

Martin Smith, longtime chef for the Vermont branch of the Community of the Crucified One and its restaurants, has amicably severed business ties with the group. Though he remains a church member, the former NECI chef says he’s been out on his own since he reopened Juniper’s Fare Deli in Northfield on September 1 as Shady’s Deli. (The Community’s other restaurants, Juniper’s Fare Café and Juni’s Take Out, will continue to operate with the help of other church members.)

What’s in the name? According to Smith, he overheard Norwich University students referring to the gas-station deli as “Shady’s” and decided to make it official. “I loved the sound of that, the juxtaposition of our food, service and the name,” he says. And, apparently, the future is so bright that Smith’s family dog, a Boston terrier named Jet, is wearing shades — at least on the eatery’s logo.

Diners can expect more of the fare Smith served at Juniper’s Fare Deli, including homemade pulled pork and pizzas. A new addition is the “Slim Shady Club,” made with house-smoked chicken and roasted garlic mayo.

Smith is using the deli for the official debut of his new company, Vermont Probiotica. He and business partner Bobby Connolly specialize in small-batch, slow-fermented products made from homegrown ingredients, including kimchi and apple and horseradish sauerkrauts. According to Smith, he and Connolly are “sitting on, like, 700 pounds” of the cabbage that they package in resealable, transparent pouches at the Mad River Food Hub.

Vermont Probiotica pickles are available on sandwiches and hot dogs or to go at Shady’s, and they’ll be for sale within a couple of weeks at Hunger Mountain Co-op in Montpelier, RJ’s Friendly Market in Waterbury, Mehuron’s Market in Waitsfield and City Market in Burlington, Smith says. Not a fan of fermented foods? Probiotica also manufactures a barbecue sauce named for Mrs. Blaise Smith: “My Smokin’ Hot Wife.”

The original print version of this article was headlined "Made in the Shade"

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!


Pin It

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Seven Days moderates comments in order to ensure a civil environment. Please treat the comments section as you would a town meeting, dinner party or classroom discussion. In other words, keep commenting classy! Read our guidelines...

Note: Comments are limited to 300 words.

foodie poll

What do you cook in early spring?

  • Lots of pasta, potatoes and other carb-heavy stuff.
  • Winter things: squash, root veggies, the like.
  • I embrace non-local produce and go all-in for mangoes, baby-green salads and avocado toast.
  • I'm all about the early-spring salad: endives, radicchio and other bitter greens with shaved roots and eggs!
  • All of the above!

View Results

Latest in Food News

Recent Comments

Social Club

Like Seven Days contests and events? Join the club!

See an example of this newsletter...

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative

All content © 2017 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Website powered by Foundation