Chris Coolidge is shopping at Radio Deli for the first time when he pays the co-proprietors, Louie Manno and Jim Condon, a not-so-rare compliment: My wife was a big fan of your show.
Oh, shes the one, Condon shoots back, to the delight of the customer.
They are referring, of course, to the witty, decidedly un-p.c. program the duo co-hosted for 15 years on Burlington area airwaves. When WKDR owner Ken Squier dropped the Manno and Condon Show in favor of an all-news format last year, the hosts decided to abandon broadcasting altogether.
In January, the combo cooked up a new scheme: Radio Deli. Here the simple meatball an ancestral Manno recipe gets all the attention. The meatball is the center of our strategy, Manno explains during a recent lunchtime rush of people who all seem to be ordering meatball grinders to go.
On April 9, however, the new place will live up to its name when Manno and Condon return to the radio, resurrecting their gab sessions from the 1200-square-foot store on the corner of Pearl and Pine streets. When Ken asked if wed like to come back, it blew me away, Manno says.
Squier contends the decision to give Manno and Condon the boot once WKDR switched to news was strictly economic, it had nothing to do with their talent. We had to make some changes; something had to go. For me, this new idea is perfect. Itll be unlike anything else on radio in this region.
A live deli show! Squier exclaims. Check your meatballs for microphones.
While seated at a small table in front of coffee urns, the talkative twosome will once again interview guests, debate local politics, render pithy observations and sometimes get a little silly weekdays from 3 to 4 p.m. Were a cross between Howard Stern and Nightline, but were never unkind to people, says Manno, in a deep, New York-accented voice. Its completely honest and spontaneous, never forced. Sometimes we discuss personal problems: Ive talked about the fact that Im manic-depressive. Real emotions equals real radio.
The logistics of the newly configured program could be challenging, considering how packed the place gets when a line of customers winds around shelves of canned goods. At the peak of their business day, Condon mans the cash register near the door, a tall and hefty Hardy to Mannos shorter, wiry Laurel dressed in a white apron behind the adjacent deli counter. Despite this archetypal pairing, their hip banter is more avuncular than mocking.
For Manno, owning a delicatessen is a lot like doing radio. If people dont like our meatballs anymore, its the same as if they tell us, You guys used to be funny.
Next to meatballs, humor is the raison dêtre for the twosome and their chef, old pal Pasquale Amedore. They kibitz constantly with each other and with the cross-section of humanity that has patronized the place since it opened: friends stopping by to chat, newcomers hoping to meet the celebrities in person and just-plain-hungry folks from the hood.
Im back for more meatballs, says Rick Carlson, who was once the landlord of a building that housed WKDR.
Did you enjoy their hallucinogenic properties? Manno quips.
If the meatballs are psychedelic, Carlson should blame or thank Mannos mother, Mary. Its Mama Mannos recipe, handed down from her mother in the Old Country, that now lures Vermonters to the Radio Deli.
My mom used to get up before six Sunday morning to start making the meatballs for dinner, which we had after church. So, Id wake up to that wonderful smell and eat them for breakfast, Manno recalls.
He credits Amedore, a former cook at Café Shelburne and Alfredos, with many of the stores other great dishes and soups. Pasquale holds this place together. Hes got a million recipes in his head and a work ethic that doesnt quit.
The trio has been putting in 50 to 90 hours each over a seven-day week. Louie gets here at 6 a.m., Condon says. I come in at nine. We normally close at 8 p.m. Eventually, we hope to hire some help.
Some has already arrived in the form of John Wilson, a WKDR reporter whose part-time labors at the deli will allow Manno and Condon the luxury of doing their daily show.
Even after the lunch rush, the door continues to open every few minutes, and the phone rings frequently. Make sure to save some lasagna for Mrs. Parker, Condon announces after one call. Shes waiting for the guy to come fix her refrigerator.
Mrs. Parker is surely glad to have these retired radio gods running the kind of homey mom-and-pop grocery that is fast disappearing in Burlington.
You guys need more non-meat stuff during Lent, suggests Mark Haverty of Burlington. I was brought up a strict Irish-Catholic.
Me too, bro, Condon tells him, as they begin to discuss the finer points of corned beef and cabbage.
His own Catholic upbringing led Manno to convince customer John Goodrow an aide to Sen. Patrick Leahy who had worked with them at WJOY in the 80s to eschew meat on Ash Wednesday. Goodrow decides to honor the custom again on the following Friday. This is where you come for food and guilt, he jokes.
To ward off the winter chill, Howard Jaentschke orders a second cup of Amedores clam chowder before continuing his rounds as a parking-meter watchdog for the Burlington Police Department. Im from Nicaragua and this is the best place Ive found to eat here in 10 years, vows Jaentschke, who was a guest on the WKDR show last year. They make you feel at home. They have amazing charisma.
Part of the Radio Delis cheerful ambiance is created by the tchochkas included in the décor: Among many other artifacts from the Manno collection are a Lost in Space lunchbox, Star Trek action figures, the decidedly non-action figures from The Simpsons, a Gumby, The Movie poster, and framed cast photographs some with autographs from old TV programs such as The Honeymooners, Mr. Ed, Green Acres, The Beverly Hillbillies and The Odd Couple.
Manno and Condon, both 42, are children of the Television Age who chose radio as the best outlet for their boisterous creativity. TV made me want to get into some kind of show business, Manno recalls. My whole family used to sit around watching and laughing. I wound up liking radio better because its less corporate.
That was then; this is now. Most radio is like factory work these days, Manno points out.
Both men were already immersed in the business by the time they first met in the early 1980s. Thats when Manno, then based in Pennsylvania, sent a demo tape to the Connecticut station where Condon was working as news director. I told him I wanted to be famous but obscure, like Larry Hovis, who played Sgt. Carter on Hogans Heroes. And he knew exactly who I was talking about. Before long, we could finish each others sentences, Manno says.
I could tell he was a fast thinker. We became best friends, explains Condon in a voice a bit higher and more melodious than his partners.
When that station went kaput, they parted ways but not for long. Condon relocated to WJOY-AM in Burlington and recommended Manno for an on-air job helping him host a morning show on WQCR, the FM arm of WJOY.
After three years there, the format began changing to more music, less talk. So Manno and Condon landed at WKDR and, in the early 90s, became part of a group that bought the station. At first it seemed a charmed life; they were their own bosses; they won all sorts of awards; their ratings soared.
We saw the potential, Manno says of their impact. I think we changed media in Vermont by forcing everybody else to be funny, to do talk radio. We had the highly sought-after audience of males from age 25 to 54.
Amedore even joined them for a brief stint with a weekly cooking show, Mangia Mangia with Pasquale.
But WKDR was undercapitalized and, after a brief partnership with the company that owns WIZN and the Buzz, was purchased in 1999 by radio mogul Squier. It wasnt long before the lads found themselves unemployed. I was disappointed and a little hurt for a while. I didnt like the way our 20-year careers had ended, like a light being turned off. We left the station in a friendly manner, but there was no closure, Manno explains. But then I realized I could still be me without radio. Im me in the store.
Still, with all that radio experience, why turn to food? Theres something nice about feeding people, he suggests. I really go to bed feeling good. As middle-aged guys, we knew that in our field we wouldnt find work that was acceptable. Jims an adaptable, affable fellow, but I dont think I could work for someone else again.
With a budget of about $50,000, Manno invested his own money, borrowed from the Northern Vermont Lending Partners and raised funds from well-to-do friends to start Radio Deli. He and Condon decided to open the business in a section of Burlington that has seen better times. Im a Brooklyn boy, Manno says. We wanted to establish a certain neighborhood camaraderie thats possible in this part of town.
Now, as they attempt to re-conquer the competitive radio market as sandwich sultans, the pair will no doubt attract a dual following. We can take advantage of this high-traffic area and fold whoever comes in the store into the show, Manno says, ladling tomato sauce on layers of pasta to make lasagna. Well have wireless mikes so we can go out onto Pearl Street. Maybe well have live bands out there once in awhile. The focus can be a little more local than before. I want to say, Were coming to you from the heart of the Enterprise Zone. This is such a great neighborhood that the city is improving without gentrifying.
Before World War II, the Queen City was divided into ethnic enclaves. Until the disruption of urban renewal projects in the 1970s, Italian-Americans still laid claim to the area just north of downtown. At the 110-year-old Radio Deli site, Izzos Market flourished for half a century and the M&M Market, which Manno calls a local treasure operated by the Merola family, fed the masses for almost three decades after that.
Manno had no interest in a Church Street location, or in a deli with tables and chairs. Here, we get a lot of characters, a lot of genuine people, and this neighborhood needed a grocery store more than it needed a restaurant. We have the staples that people need at very reasonable prices, he says, pointing out a $1.39 can of baked beans, a $1.19 tin of tuna and packages of Ramen noodles at five for a buck. Not bad for a little store. We have a modest margin, but we dont have to gouge anyone.
When a customer named Bob St. Peter wins $38 on three Hot Triple Action lottery tickets, Manno offers an aside: Of course, we want him to reinvest that money at the Radio Deli
where the savings seldom cease, Condon adds, evidence that they are still finishing each others sentences with snappy promotional flourishes.
Customers provide the testimonials.
Im getting a meatball sub, which I hear is outstanding, says Brent Raymond of Williston.
Its made from the old Manno family recipe, which Ive been eating for 20 years. So, look at me, Condon says, arms extended to show off his girth.
Im looking for some of those meatballs Ive been hearing about, announces Gregory Hart of Fairfax. But they have to pass my wifes test. Were Italians from New Jersey.
Manno grins and hands him a sample of the cuisine. We accept that challenge.
After a few bites, Hart proclaims the meatball delicious and buys a dinner-sized portion to take home to the missus. Ive been listening to you guys for, like, 10 years, he tells them, while paying at the register.
Oh, youre the one, Condon wisecracks once again.
Thomas Baird: In the 1960s, scientists at Harvard University were bribed by the sugar industry to produce counterfeit studies wrongly…
Joanna Grossman: Agreed. These meat and potatoes themed-articles make VT seem like a crusty relic, *not* a thought leader in…
Lisa Morgan Gould: I await a time when there will be a best Vegetarian/Vegan category... sigh... someday...