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Supper Superlatives 2012 

Seven Days’ food team debates the best things to happen to Vermont food this year

click to enlarge Pizzeria Verita
  • Pizzeria Verita

Another year of eating has passed, and the Vermont food world just seems to keep getting richer. It’s now more of a surprise to see a restaurant not using local ingredients than it is to find yet another one listing its farm connections. Ethnic fare, from Turkish to Indo-Chinese, continues to make our state a more diverse place to live and gorge.

This year, food writers Corin Hirsch and Alice Levitt were so impressed with the culinary treasures they found that they put together a list of notable achievements, high-school-senior-class style. Chefs, if you want to sign our yearbooks, please return them to us by the end of the day.

Best Menu Reinvention

Corin Hirsch: Though I’m told that North Hero House has always served solid fare, the dishes that new chef Tim McQuinn assembled for a recent cider-pairing dinner suggested comfort food on Venus. Think velvety, sous-vide pork belly in a cider glaze; seared foie gras atop a smear of quince paste; halibut rolled in crushed pumpkin seeds. When we talked with him, McQuinn seemed a little nervous about spending his first long winter in the islands; I hope plenty of hungry people pay him visits.

Alice Levitt: Prohibition Pig had me at hello, or at least at panko-fried pimiento cheese and chopped, smoked pork. But now, just in time for the holidays, new chef Michael Werneke has brought the restaurant a number of gifts from his former digs, the Rusty Nail Bar & Grille.

Pro Pig plus duck-fat fries and handmade banh mi? What’s a girl to do but belly up to the bar for a cocktail or some Cheerwine and pig out?

Best New Cuisine to Make It to Vermont

AL: I never thought I’d be able to get Scandinavian food on the street in Montpelier. But, thanks to the fine folks at Grünhaus Nordic Street Eats, the unlikely has become reality. Sure, there are no frikadeller or lutefisk at the food cart, but ultra-rich, dark, hot drinking chocolate and sausage-and-sauerkraut-filled potato wraps make up for it.

Best Drink

CH: The cocktails at Burlington’s Bluebird Tavern are always elegant; those of Waterbury’s Prohibition Pig are muscular and imaginative. For sheer novelty, though, the savory Mr. Figgy at Stowe’s Crop Bistro & Brewery carried the moment. It’s Maker’s Mark bourbon swirled with rhubarb bitters, fig reduction and tiny shards of rosemary, served up with a crisp slice of maple-cured bacon across the top of the glass.

Best Pizza

CH: In Pizza Land, there are sloppy, quick slices that grease up your fingers, and there are pies that require you to savor them more slowly. Pizzeria Verità’s pies are the latter; each crust begins its life with a long, lazy rise and then is blistered inside a very hot oven, its bottom dusted with char marks. The sauce is bright, and the cheese is made fresh here, so that eating a burrata-topped pie is akin to moving your mouth through a savory cloud.

Ninety miles downstate, Woodstock gained a new pizzeria this year, too — Pi Brick Oven Trattoria. Here, the pies are more raucously oily and messy but equally satisfying.

AL: Part of what makes my partnership with Corin so much fun is our contrasting tastes, but I agree wholeheartedly that Pizzeria Verità scratches an itch I didn’t even know I had. The chewy, charred crust is the blanket that wraps the whole sensuous experience luxuriously together. High-quality ingredients are key, but so are creative combinations. Last summer, the Maïs pie brilliantly married salty speck, sweet corn and heavy cream.

Don’t even get me started on the oozing chocolate of the Nutella pizza. Just try it.

Best New Chef

AL: Adam Longworth calls one of the fathers of New American cuisine his mentor, but at the Common Man in Warren, he has stepped out of Alfred Portale’s shadow. Longworth’s cooking is worth traveling for — from anywhere — and easily stands among the best in Vermont, just as the chef’s food stood out when he was chef de cuisine at Gotham Bar and Grill in New York City. Whether he’s preparing stunning salads or perfectly seared halibut with an electric coconut-lemon emulsion, the Northfield native is surely making Portale proud.

Best Mobile Eatery

AL: Maybe you don’t believe there’s such a thing as a transcendent hot dog? Then you haven’t tried one of the Noble Pig’s coarsely ground, natural-casing franks made from local beef and whey-fed pork and served on a warm, steamed, Mexican-style cemita bun. Best of all, the folks behind the Noble Pig, Cloud 9 Caterers, have a heated food truck to keep the sausages — plus ramen bowls and Mexican tortas — rolling all year long.

CH: If you blinked, it was gone, but for a glorious summery blip in time, a bright-red food truck appeared in a White River Junction lot full of rusted-out cars, like a giant cherry in a sea of mud. At the StrEats Mobile Canteen, you had to shout above the occasional passing train to order burgers topped with local eggs, or skewers of cumin-y grilled shrimp, or even cardboard containers filled with sage-flecked gnocchi. No word on what StrEats’ two owners, Jason Northup and Chris Brewer, are doing now, but I hope they resurface soon.

Gnarliest Food Fight

CH: Lots of feel-good bluster accompanied the Skinny Pancake’s recent announcement that it would take over concessions at Burlington International Airport — but what a difference a month makes. When it emerged that owners Jonny and Benjy Adler had wiggled out of paying their employees the city-ordained livable wage, the story became Crêpegate. It also jump-started a thoughtful dialogue about the real cost of local food and running a viable food business. In the end, most commentators were convinced that the Adlers were earnestly seeking to balance fairness with business sense.

AL: Buying the Rusty Nail Bar & Grille was a longtime goal for Kim Kaufman and Jim Goldsmith, owners of the Blue Donkey in Stowe. Their dream turned into a nightmare that left the couple $1.5 million in escrow when they learned the previous owners had $27,000 in back taxes and unpaid sewer fees. According to Darrow H. Mansfield, director of Kaufman and Goldsmith’s company, BIG Builders, “We are hearing that People’s United Bank seized the property and padlocked the place (mortgage default) and it is going to foreclosure. Word is it will not reopen.” If that’s true, it’s a sad end to a Stowe favorite.

Most Delicious Reason to Cross the Border

AL: So far, I’ve been too cheap to try the hot new Montréal restaurants owned by Daniel Boulud or Jamie Oliver, and, despite my best attempts to make it up there in time, I entirely missed Gordon Ramsay’s brief ownership of the Laurier 1936 rôtisserie chicken restaurant. That’s why I can’t wait to see how Taste MTL, the city’s new restaurant week, grows next year. I was mightily impressed by my meal at Bistro Le Répertoire this past fall, and I’m already primed for more creative cuisine — at a discount.

CH: A line almost always snakes out the door of Kazu, on rue Ste-Catherine Ouest in Montréal’s Concordia ghetto. I never got inside until, this summer, a late-afternoon lull allowed me to breeze right into this tiny Japanese izakaya joint and take a seat at the counter. Kazu’s magnetism suddenly made sense: The menu is huge, the portions generous and the prices low. After inhaling some gingery, 48-hour pork and a plate of razor-thin chirashi sushi, I ordered a rich, gorgeous bowl of pork-belly ramen with homemade noodles. It wasn’t easy to leave.

Biggest Bummer

AL: The untimely passing of the Cheese Outlet/Fresh Market cookie. When the take-out eatery and market closed this past fall in Burlington’s South End, it took with it the chocolate-chunk cookies that fueled my days at the office. Even after getting the recipe from the cookies’ creator, I still haven’t recovered.

CH: Elements Food & Spirit was for sale for a while, so the writing was on the wall. Still, when the two couples who managed this restaurant in a historic St. Johnsbury mill finally closed it last January, it felt like the hatch was being shut and locked on thoughtful dining in St. J. At Elements, many menu items were foraged, and the kitchen sourced from a range of nearby farms.

Fortunately, last summer a new set of owners resurrected the space as Bailiwicks on Mill, carrying over the comfort-food menu from their sister restaurant in Littleton, N.H. That menu may be what the town has been hungry for: During a recent visit to Bailiwicks, the space was more packed than I’ve ever seen it.

Best Trend

AL: Too many great things are happening for me to choose just one. The charcuterie boom is exciting, as is the sudden preponderance of homemade ramen at casual eateries and food trucks alike.

I named this the Year of the Pizza back in July, but it was new artisan ice cream makers that really made their mark on our dairy state this year. Chill Gelato in Montpelier, Scout’s Honor in Waitsfield and lu lu in Bristol all added personality to Vermont’s reputation as a destination for well-made, deliciously flavored milk products. Cheese makers, you’ve been warned.

CH: This was the year Vermont stills really got cranking and exquisite local spirits began to flow. Caledonia Spirits’ Barr Hill Gin is like the butterfly of the gin world, delicate and sweet; the creamy vanilla notes of Smugglers’ Notch Distillery Rum, which is aged in Jim Beam barrels, can get you through an entire winter. Vermont’s next distilling wave seems to promise whiskey, so 2013 should be an equally satisfying (and tipsy) year.

On the culinary side, I was intensely happy to see ceviche appear on one, then three, then numerous menus around the state. ¡Viva citrus-cooked raw fish!

What We’re Hoping for in 2013

CH: Down on Long Island, where my family lives, is a place called Mr. Sausage. Despite the ridiculous name, it’s a glorious, perpetually busy mecca. In Vermont, we have no single place to get capicola and prosciutto sliced before our eyes; an Italian sub dripping with vinegar; a fresh ball of mozzarella — the wobbly kind that hasn’t yet seen the inside of a cooler: containers of broccoli rabe sautéed with garlic; and fresh slabs of lasagna that you didn’t have to cook yourself. I wish others felt this vacuum as acutely as I do.

AL: I have the same wish every year: Korean barbecue. All I can eat and cooked right at my table.

I would also be open to great Indian food, particularly a well-stocked buffet with lots of regional specialties. Or a Slavic restaurant.

Finally, can I get a little Uyghur food in this place? I’m ready for mutton kebabs and goshnan, Vermont-style.

Best New Foodie Haven

AL: In the summer of 2011, I had every intention of lauding Waitsfield as a new foodie haven at the end of the year. Then Irene struck, and much of what made the town great was destroyed — or, at the very least, required rebuilding.

This year, the town rose again stronger than before, with a still-growing food hub, booming farms and destination eateries, including a whole new set occupying the space that once housed the beloved Green Cup Café. Way to go, Waitsfield.

CH: In what seems like less than a year, Waterbury’s downtown has changed from a pub-crawl-worthy strip to a diverse collection of places where you can not only slake your thirst but sate your appetite, many of them survivors of that storm we swear not to mention anymore. On any given night, you can get lengua tacos inside Blackback Pub & Flyshop (from the Mad Taco, which recently set up shop there); shrimp and grits at Prohibition Pig; a grass-fed burger at the Reservoir Restaurant and Tap Room; oysters and Prosecco at Cork Wine Bar & Market ... and now pizza at the Blue Stone Pizza Shop and Tavern. (We haven’t even mentioned that giant foodie haven hovering just outside of downtown, Hen of the Wood.) Now all Waterbury needs are more places to lay a drowsy head after a night out.

Which brings us to…

What We Promise Never to Write About Again

CH: In wine parlance, Tropical Storm Irene had a “lingering finish” — it was all we could think about for days, months, a year. Some food folk are still dealing with the fallout (as are homeowners still waiting for their FEMA assistance), but ask anyone who was flooded, and most will say, “Irene made us stronger.” From Quechee to South Royalton to Waterbury, Waitsfield and Rochester, it seems like most people have finally let her go. So will we.

The Culinary Crystal Ball

With Saturn in Scorpio and Uranus squaring Pluto, the food world is set to implode next year. Um ... just kidding. Predicting food trends is a favorite pastime for food writers, this one included. Some of the trends expected to gain a mainstream foothold in 2013 — such as local sourcing, pickling and wildcrafting (aka foraging) — are already ingrained in Vermont. But here are five that may percolate northward in the next year.

Low- and no-alcohol cocktails — aka mocktails — and savory spirits

We’ll still see savory cocktails in 2013, including increasingly bitter ones. (Deirdre Heekin, the sommelier at Woodstock’s Osteria Pane e Salute and cocreator of the apple-based aperitif Orleans, already has another Campari-like aperitif in the works.) Unusual savory spirits — such as eau-de-vies made from odd items like carrots — may also appear more often on bar shelves. Also in the shaker will be more low-alcohol drinks made with the same degree of artistry and care as their boozy cousins. This year, South Burlington’s Guild & Company Steakhouse rolled out a compact Temperance menu with drinks bearing such names as the Importance of Being Earnest — grapefruit sherbet, Holy Trinity syrup and fresh lime. Expect interesting syrups and infusions to keep on taking the place of spirits, but color is key: No one really wants to sip a brown drink unless it makes them tipsy.

Tiny, oily fish

Enough with red, green and yellow tags to signal sustainability in the seafood case. The smaller the fish, the better it is for you and for the health of the sea, so expect mackerel, anchovies and sardines to show up on your plate more often. These petite swimmers are not only plentiful; they’re packed with those good omega-3 fats that make for glowing skin and humming organs. Plus, they tend to be cheaper and intensely flavorful, though the briny burst of a sardine takes some getting used to.

Sour puss

If you think the muffins you buy each morning are less sweet than they used to be, and your lunchtime soups less salty, it’s not your imagination. Thankfully, the American palate is evolving from craving salty, tip-of-the-tongue sensations toward appreciating bitter and sour flavors that pack more of a wallop. It’s now possible to talk about “flavor balance” with the average diner, and he or she will nod in recognition. The latest flavor in ascendancy is sour — that sensation that strikes the outer-middle edges of your tongue. Lemons are puckery, of course, but so are buttermilk, yuzu, tamarind and even gueuze, a sour lambic beer.

Artisanal cheeses invade the supermarket

If you regularly shop at a co-op or natural-foods store, you’re used to seeing a wealth of local and artisanal cheeses in the cold case. But I almost fell over recently when I found Nettle Meadow Farm Honey Lavender Fromage Blanc (from upstate New York) in my local Price Chopper, right next to the Boursin. It joins sheep’s-milk feta and Maplebrook Fine Cheese mozzarella, which also recently made it to the mainstream grocery — cheeses that will multiply and crowd out those orange American slices.

The rise of Latin American food

Ceviche had a moment of menu glory this year, and right behind it come arepas and alpaca, yucca and plaintain, quinoa and loads of pepper, cilantro and citrus. After Vermont’s recent Mexican wave, chefs may find themselves reaching even farther south and tapping South American dishes that make imaginative use of beans and fresh fish, corn flour and citrus and, above all, color. South American spirits pisco, mescal and cachaça will come along for the ride. At least, if the Department of Liquor Control catches up.

Up With the Languedoc

While a Bordeaux or Burgundy is the common French wine of choice, Asians’ thirst for those bottles is pushing their prices ever upward. In response, importers — and distributors and restaurateurs — are turning their attention to regions that offer better value, and to bottles that evoke the classic observation, “This wine drinks way beyond its price point.” For the last few years, the Rhône offered that value, but now that newly wealthy Chinese are snapping up Rhône reds, too, Languedoc-Roussillon is on the rise. While some of the wines are a little rough around the edges, others mirror the polish of their Rhône counterparts and use the same grapes, to boot.

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About The Authors

Corin Hirsch

Corin Hirsch

Bio:
Food writer Corin Hirsch joined the Seven Days staff in 2011. She is the author of Forgotten Drinks of Colonial New England, published by History Press in 2014.
Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Bio:
AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.

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