I was surprised this morning to find out that the media is hot on the trail of the "forgotten" Rodin bust at the Champlain Memorial Lighthouse in Crown Point, NY. The lighthouse and the sculpture are being restored in honor of the upcoming quadricentennial celebrations. Fox 44, WCAX and the Washington Post all ran versions of an Associate Press write-up on the Rodin piece. There's a story on the front page of the Burlington Free Press, too, though, inexplicably, the article isn't online.
I wrote about the bust in April of 2006, in a story called "Lady on the Lake." Probably no one remembers it now, other than the fine people of Crown Point, who are probably still annoyed with my characterization of the region.
The French government gave us the Rodin sculpture in 1912, in honor of the 300th anniversary of Sam de Champlain's "discovery" of the new world, and as proof that our two countries are good buddies. This was a big deal back then. Rodin was very popular in the U.S.; President Taft came to Crown Point to see the lighthouse.
Since then, the work of art has been neglected. Here's my impression of the Crown Point visitors' center, from 2006:
The ramshackle tourist info center... houses hundreds of colorful brochures for attractions such as mini-golf and paintball, but the flimsy black-and-white tri-folded page that describes the Rodin is an outdated and poorly reproduced photocopy. A dark black finger smudge partly obscures the letters DEC - the acronym for New York's Department of Environmental Conservation.
On an afternoon in late March, there's just one brochure left. Tourist Information director Suzanne May opens a drawer in her office, pulls out the original, and slaps it on the copier to make more.
"I know," she says, "Pathetic. We can't get state funding to print any more. If I ever lose this, I'm in big trouble."
Apparently the impending quad has loosened some purse strings.
The picture of the sculpture is from my story. I think I actually clambered up on the rock wall of the lighthouse to snap the photo. It's not like there was anyone around to stop me. The park was more or less deserted, except for me and Frances Chevalier, the Norwich University professor who tipped me off about the artwork.
Incidentally, the face is said to be a likeness of Rodin's mistress, sculptor Camille Claudel. There's more about her tragic tale in my story.
It's worth a trip to the campground across the bridge to see the lighthouse, though it sounds like they're going to beef up security a bit now that people are aware that the sculpture is valuable, so you might not be able to get as close to it as I did. According to the AP, a rededication is scheduled for September 19.
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