Alice Eats: Lake-View Restaurant | Bite Club
Pin It
Favorite

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Alice Eats: Lake-View Restaurant

Posted By on Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:30 PM

1710 Shelburne Road, South Burlington 865-3900

click to enlarge 6a00d83451b91969e20133eca9a045970b-pi.jpg

Years ago, I tried to have lunch at the Lake-View. I waited at the bar forever for someone to come seat me. They never did, and I never went back  – until last night. Working on their Vermont Restaurant Week menu, I was so tantalized, I just had to give the place another try. I was not disappointed.

The table I chose in the bar section of the greenhouse-like space was extraordinarily comfy. The seats were stuffed as soft and cuddly as grandma's sofa. A neon sign blaring "The Beef" hung jauntily over the bar, a tribute to the room's long-ago existence as What's the Beef II.

The meal started with a basket on teensy honey wheat rolls, hot from the oven. I tried the blood orange salad. The whole assemblage worked together wonderfully –  the richly sweet citrus paired with anise-redolent fennel, tangy chèvre, field greens and sunflower seeds in white balsamic vinaigrette. The creamy garlic soup tasted of just that and was eminently satisfying.

The Chicken Pot Pie also had a pleasantly garlicky taste, along with perfectly cooked chunks of root vegetables, spinach and Misty Knoll chicken, all housed under a dense umbrella of puff pastry. Pork Schnitzel (pictured) was coated unconventionally in cornmeal as well as bread crumbs. The dish, served over sharp dijon spaetzle and spinach, brought to mind the chicken schnitzel that for years was my favorite lunch dish at Butler's in Essex.

I was delighted to dig in to the caper and onion covered cutlets, which had not an ounce of fat. The one flaw, which the dish shared with the long-discontinued version at the Essex, was too little sauce. The menu advertises lemon caper butter sauce, but it was barely discernible. Nonetheless, I would return for that plate of food alone.

click to enlarge 6a00d83451b91969e201347fd98f64970c-pi.jpg

Dessert included apple crisp (pictured) with apples cooked to a wonderful level of softness: No crunch, but they didn't disintegrate either. The more exciting choice was maple-cardamom crème brulée. Bits of cardamom and vanilla bean were clearly visible at the bottom of the tureen. The dessert was served slightly above room temperature, a huge credit to the kitchen in a world where too often, I'm served crème brulées clearly straight out of the fridge.

The menu at the Lake-View is so full of appealing choices, I know I must return. Whether I'll go with the Cider-Braised Lamb Shank or Beer-Braised Yankee Pot Roast, I'm not sure. According to my server, the only thing not worth trying is the chicken sandwich. I've got a lot of work ahead of me.

Tags: ,

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

Pin It
Favorite

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Bio:
AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

Keep commenting classy! Read our guidelines...

Note: Comments are limited to 300 words.

Latest in Bite Club

Social Club

Like Seven Days contests and events? Join the club!

See an example of this newsletter...

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2017 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Website powered by Foundation