Alice Eats: Lake-View Restaurant | Bite Club

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Alice Eats: Lake-View Restaurant

Posted By on Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 2:30 PM

1710 Shelburne Road, South Burlington 865-3900

Years ago, I tried to have lunch at the Lake-View. I waited at the bar forever for someone to come seat me. They never did, and I never went back  – until last night. Working on their Vermont Restaurant Week menu, I was so tantalized, I just had to give the place another try. I was not disappointed.

The table I chose in the bar section of the greenhouse-like space was extraordinarily comfy. The seats were stuffed as soft and cuddly as grandma's sofa. A neon sign blaring "The Beef" hung jauntily over the bar, a tribute to the room's long-ago existence as What's the Beef II.

The meal started with a basket on teensy honey wheat rolls, hot from the oven. I tried the blood orange salad. The whole assemblage worked together wonderfully –  the richly sweet citrus paired with anise-redolent fennel, tangy chèvre, field greens and sunflower seeds in white balsamic vinaigrette. The creamy garlic soup tasted of just that and was eminently satisfying.

The Chicken Pot Pie also had a pleasantly garlicky taste, along with perfectly cooked chunks of root vegetables, spinach and Misty Knoll chicken, all housed under a dense umbrella of puff pastry. Pork Schnitzel (pictured) was coated unconventionally in cornmeal as well as bread crumbs. The dish, served over sharp dijon spaetzle and spinach, brought to mind the chicken schnitzel that for years was my favorite lunch dish at Butler's in Essex.

I was delighted to dig in to the caper and onion covered cutlets, which had not an ounce of fat. The one flaw, which the dish shared with the long-discontinued version at the Essex, was too little sauce. The menu advertises lemon caper butter sauce, but it was barely discernible. Nonetheless, I would return for that plate of food alone.

Dessert included apple crisp (pictured) with apples cooked to a wonderful level of softness: No crunch, but they didn't disintegrate either. The more exciting choice was maple-cardamom crème brulée. Bits of cardamom and vanilla bean were clearly visible at the bottom of the tureen. The dessert was served slightly above room temperature, a huge credit to the kitchen in a world where too often, I'm served crème brulées clearly straight out of the fridge.

The menu at the Lake-View is so full of appealing choices, I know I must return. Whether I'll go with the Cider-Braised Lamb Shank or Beer-Braised Yankee Pot Roast, I'm not sure. According to my server, the only thing not worth trying is the chicken sandwich. I've got a lot of work ahead of me.

Tags: ,

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

One or more images has been removed from this article. For further information, contact web@sevendaysvt.com.

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

Bio:
AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.

More By This Author

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2

 

Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Latest in Bite Club

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2020 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401  |  Contact Us
Website powered by Foundation