Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Please support our work!

Donate  Advertise

Monday, December 29, 2014

2014: a Banner Year for #VTBeer

Posted By on Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 9:00 AM

So many empty bottles ... and cans. - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • So many empty bottles ... and cans.
In 2014, Vermont’s brewing industry continued on a path of explosive growth. At least 10 new breweries opened for business, and several established ones staged massive expansions. The state’s brewing capacity expanded monthly in 2014, and more brewers are on track to launch next year.

With so many hops happening, year’s end seemed like an ideal time to look back through 12 months' worth of bottles, kegs, cans and growlers.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , ,

Alice Levitt's Best New Restaurant Dishes of 2014

Posted By on Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 8:52 AM

To me, this was not an especially amazing year for Vermont food overall. Rarely did my heart flutter with eros when I tried a new restaurant. Most of the meals that did excite me were new concepts at established restaurants: The embarrassment of Lebanese-inflected, lamby riches at Kismet during Vermont Restaurant Week; the outsize flavors of taqueria nights at 3 Squares; and the tender meatballs served outside the Common Man all made me take note.

Yet I'll admit that looking at this list makes me perk up, even salivate a little. From greasy spoons to cerebral fine dining, a respectable group of dishes did lub-dub from eros to agape in my heart. Even in a so-so year, Vermont still manages to kick some culinary ass. Behold some of the evidence:

Hot turkey sandwich, Parkway Diner

Hot turkey sandwich, Parkway Diner, South Burlington - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Hot turkey sandwich, Parkway Diner, South Burlington
After nearly 16 years in the Green Mountains, I had yet to find a version of this diner standard that equaled the ones I grew up with outside New York City. It finally happened with the reopening of this Worcester Lunch Car-style diner. The tangy gravy is made from the drippings of turkey that's cooked daily. Even the crisp fries are salty perfection.

Duck wings, Barrows House Restaurant

Duck wings, Barrows House Restaurant, Dorset - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Duck wings, Barrows House Restaurant, Dorset
Forget chicken; the duck wings I ate last summer at this southern Vermont gastropub may be the best I've ever tasted. The extra-large drumettes are slow-cooked, then fried, so they're crisp inside and fall-apart tender within. Best of all is the spicy ginger sauce that dresses them.

Filet mignon burger, The Lobby


Filet mignon burger, The Lobby, Middlebury - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Filet mignon burger, The Lobby, Middlebury
Since opening in February, the Lobby's range of upscale classics as burgers has transformed several times. But my favorite is still an early iteration that I hope returns some day. I still dream of the medium-rare beef topped with chewy mushrooms and buttery Béarnaise. No question: It was the burger of the year.

Chipotle & Honey pizza, La Boca Wood Fired Pizzeria

Chipotle & Honey pizza, La Boca Wood Fired Pizzeria, Burlington - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Chipotle & Honey pizza, La Boca Wood Fired Pizzeria, Burlington
At many pizzerias,  a plain old Margherita is the pie with the most impact. At first glance, La Boca's best pie is even simpler: just tomato and a layer of cheese. But fiery chipotle chile oil changes that. A drizzle of local honey cools the heat and gives the whole pie a light touch of gooey sweetness.

Foie gras torchon, Junction

Foie gras torchon, Junction, Essex Junction - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Foie gras torchon, Junction, Essex Junction
When I tasted this dish in September, I described it as "an appetizer conceived and presented like a savory dessert." The evidence is pictured above, but what you can't see is the mind-broadening complexity. Maple whiskey, pistachios, raspberry vinegar, pineapple mint and a fennel biscotto were just a few of the many elements that combined for an app I'll never forget.

Carne guisado, Burt's Irish Pub

Carne guisado, Burt's Irish Pub, Stowe - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Carne guisado, Burt's Irish Pub, Stowe
OK, so Burt's Irish Pub has been in Stowe since 1976. But I had never been there, so to me it was new this year. And boy, am I glad I discovered this strange little dive and its Colombian-style home cooking. The robustly spiced carne guisado is served over rice with sweet plantains, then buried in avocado, red onions and cilantro. It's a taste of the tropics, even when there's snow on the ground.

Pierogi, Luiza's Homemade With Love

Pierogi, Luiza's Homemade With Love, Shelburne - FILE: OLIVER PARINI
  • File: Oliver Parini
  • Pierogi, Luiza's Homemade With Love, Shelburne
In this list's previous six years, I've stuck to restaurant dishes only. I can't do that this year. Not when Luiza Sienko's pierogi are so blasted perfect. Sold at local markets, including Healthy Living and Euro Market in South Burlington, the love-filled dumplings are now a regular part of my diet. Cheese, potato-and-cheese and sweet-cabbage versions are all light, fluffy fantasia in ultra-thin noodle shells. One taste and Mrs. T was banned from my house for life.

The Captain, The Diner

The Captain, The Diner, Middlebury, - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • The Captain, The Diner, Middlebury,
As much bread pudding as French toast, this soft, cinnamon-soaked toast has something extra. Make that several extras. The bread is coated in coconut and crumbs of Cap'n Crunch. If that's not enough to make your teeth hurt, there's a drizzle of caramel sauce, a shower of powdered sugar and a puff of whipped cream. But you won't think it's too sweet. You'll just ask for more.

Salt and pepper pork, Essex Chinese Restaurant

Salt-and-pepper pork, Essex Chinese Restaurant, Essex Junction - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Salt-and-pepper pork, Essex Chinese Restaurant, Essex Junction
Take slices of juicy pork, dredge them in flour and fry. Coat in smoked salt and Szechuan peppercorn, and you've got yourself a crunchy, spicy, smoky winner. This is the kind of hole-in-the-wall surprise I pray for. An addictive homestyle treat, hidden on the menu somewhere between the fried rice and General Tso.

Chocolate-hazelnut panna cotta, Phoenix Table and Bar

Chocolate-hazelnut panna cotta, Phoenix Table and Bar, Stowe - FILE: JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • File: Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Chocolate-hazelnut panna cotta, Phoenix Table and Bar, Stowe
There was no other contender for best dessert of the year. The moment this panna cotta's sultry wiggle came into my life, I knew I wouldn't be able to quit it. At the time, I described it as "a Wendy's Frosty, but all grown up and on a trip to Europe." Factor in a silken texture, a joyous marriage of chocolate and hazelnut and flaky chocolate shavings, and you've got yourself an unforgettable sweet.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Monday, December 22, 2014

Prohibition Pig Brewery and Tasting Room Opens

Posted By on Mon, Dec 22, 2014 at 5:25 PM

Nate Johnson mashing in the first brew in Prohibition Pig's new brewery last Friday. - COURTESY CHAD RICH/PROHIBITION PIG
  • Courtesy Chad Rich/Prohibition Pig
  • Nate Johnson mashing in the first brew in Prohibition Pig's new brewery last Friday.

After more than seven months of building, permitting, tweaking and final-touching, Prohibition Pig’s brewery and tasting room will open officially this Friday, December 26, Pro Pig owner Chad Rich told Seven Days via phone on Monday. But if you’re in Waterbury or nearby, there’s a pre-opening wet-run tonight — Monday, December 22 — from 4 to 10 p.m. Call it an early or late Christmas gift, depending on where you sit.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Holiday Sweets: Five Pastry Chefs Dish on Dessert Traditions

Posted By on Mon, Dec 22, 2014 at 8:00 AM

Hen of the Wood pastry chef Andrew "Little Sweets" LeStourgeon baking holiday cookies as a child - COURTESY ANDREW LESTOURGEON
  • Courtesy Andrew LeStourgeon
  • Hen of the Wood pastry chef Andrew "Little Sweets" LeStourgeon baking holiday cookies as a child
If the holidays mean anything, they mean tradition: traditions of faith, traditions of gathering together, of gifts and reflection and — most deliciously — food. This season, I've written on my own family custom of burning the plum pudding at Christmas dinner, and of the Druid tradition of wassailing the apple trees

Now, Seven Days talks passed-down desserts — with five super-sweet local pastry chefs. 

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Alice Eats: Marquis Theatre

Posted By on Tue, Dec 16, 2014 at 1:27 PM

Movie theater popcorn and burritos, together at last - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Movie theater popcorn and burritos, together at last
Remember the year 2011? It was a heady time, full of promise and movie theater restaurants. Yeah, even if you remember 2011, you may not recall the blink-and-you'lll-miss-it trend that hit Vermont that year. Oscar's at Williston's Majestic 10 and Essex Cinemas' Club Take 2 meant a moment for restaurants in movie theaters.

That moment was over by 2012, when only the long-lived Big Picture Theater remained. What should we expect, then, for Middlebury's Marquis Theater, which opened its Southwestern-style restaurant in October? I stopped in on Sunday to check it out.

It's possible to purchase and bring not only food but beer, wine and cider into the two theaters, now outfitted with comfy couches ideal for snacking. I stayed on the bottom floor, a former third screening room that's been transformed into an airy eatery with two levels of tables. The 12-foot screen was showing a football game, but the handful of other customers seemed more interested in the food. Me, too.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Farmers Market Kitchen: Merry Cider Cocktail

Posted By on Tue, Dec 16, 2014 at 11:27 AM

This cocktail is a friendly, wintry mix. - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • This cocktail is a friendly, wintry mix.
With the holidays practically upon us, now is the time for parties and hosting, feasting and cocktailing. But it's easy to let the booze get the best of you, and no host wants to over-serve her guests. 

So, in the spirit optimal holiday enjoyment, here is a feather-light, bubbly cocktail that feels exceptionally festive without being super boozy. It's also fairly inexpensive and very, very easy to make. My version incorporates liquids from Urban Moonshine, Eden Ice Cider and Citizen Cider, but can be made with any light sparkling cider (don't go super dry or funky here) and whatever bitters you've got in your cupboard. But if you don't have it already, you'll want to use the Orleans Herbal aperitif: it's wonderful and really makes the drink shine. 

Cheers!

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Farmers Market Kitchen: Squashy Saucy Chickpea Pasta

Posted By on Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 2:21 PM

Leftover pumpkin can be cut and saved (in fridge or freezer) for weeks. - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Leftover pumpkin can be cut and saved (in fridge or freezer) for weeks.
One of the drawbacks of cooking with fresh pumpkin is that it becomes a never-ending saga. The protagonist cook must slowly slay the behemoth squash, devouring it bit by bit until it's gone. Break open a pumpkin and you're stuck with it for weeks. 

Last week, I took a pumpkin to task: Craig Claiborne's lovely pudding barely made a dent in the gourd I'd been stashing for months. So I cut the rest of it into pieces, froze some of it, and stowed the rest in my crisper. On Wednesday, I prepared a few pieces as a squashy burrito filling; on Sunday, I threw some into a creamy northern-Italian-style pasta, using dry goods and this and that from my pantry. 

It was so yummy (and easy!), I felt compelled to share. It would be a challenge to go vegan with this one, but it could easily become vegetarian by leaving out the sausage. This recipe will also work well with any orange winter squash.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Alice Eats: SpagHeady & Meatball Dinner at the Common Man

Posted By on Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 1:00 PM

The elegant barn filled with diners craving comfort food - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • The elegant barn filled with diners craving comfort food
Starting December 23, Sugarbush skiers will have a new dining option. Right in front of the Common Man Restaurant at 3209 German Flats Road, the eatery's co-owners, Adam Longworth and Lorien Wroten, will unveil Common Kitchen Meatball Co., a custommade trailer specially designed for serving up meatballs to schussers on the go.

But before Longworth and Wroten headed down to North Carolina to pick up the trailer, they invited guests to preview their meatballs at a $23 prix-fixe dinner on Sunday night. Already dining for a little more than the usual Alice Eats limit, we eschewed the Heady Toppers indicated by the meal's official name "SpagHeady & Meatball Dinner" and skipped right to the savories.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Vermont's Seven Best Cookies

Posted By and on Sat, Dec 6, 2014 at 9:59 AM

With the holiday season officially upon us, we at the Seven Days food desk have cookies on the brain. Thus, we kick off our first monthly "Seven Best" list with an ode to some of our favorites in the sweet state of Vermont.

Rather than limiting ourselves to holiday cookies, we decided to take stock of the very best cookies (and cookie-like sweets) Vermont has to offer. From Magic Bars to classic chocolates chips, here are seven exemplary treats to sate your inner Cookie Monster. Just remember what the blue man himself learned back in 2004, "A Cookie is a Sometimes Food." Or not. 

1. Chocolate Chip Cookie, Bluebird Coffee Stop

Chocolate chip cookies at Bluebird Coffee Stop at the Innovation Center - ALICE LEVITT
  • Alice Levitt
  • Chocolate chip cookies at Bluebird Coffee Stop at the Innovation Center
Burlington's recent chocolate chip history has been a saga of outstanding highs and gutting disappointment. For decades, there was the legendary, melty Fresh Market cookie on Pine Street. A year after that store closed in 2012, Guild Fine Meats cured what ailed us with a nutty, buttery version that we named one of the best new dishes of 2013. Now that Guild is gone, too, Bluebird Coffee Stop has taken up the mantle with an improved chocolate chip that we call our new favorite. At once soft and chewy, the crisp edges crackle with the flavor of butter while dark chocolate works its way into nearly every bite. Our lives can continue normally now with a classic cookie we can rely on. — A.L.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , ,

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Farmers Market Kitchen: Craig Claiborne's Pumpkin Pudding

Posted By on Tue, Dec 2, 2014 at 3:29 PM

How to handle a pumpkin?! - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • How to handle a pumpkin?!
I've had a pumpkin (from Shelburne Farms) in my pantry since September. And now that Thanksgiving has come and gone, it seemed like high time to use it. I wanted to do something more original than pumpkin pie or bread, so I flipped to the index of Craig Claiborne's The New York Times Cookbook, published in 1961, and looked up "pumpkin."

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , ,

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2024 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401

Advertising Policy  |  Privacy Policy  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Help
Website powered by Foundation