Dining on a Dime: Barrio Bakery | Bite Club
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Friday, October 28, 2016

Dining on a Dime: Barrio Bakery

Posted By on Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 3:04 PM

click to enlarge Fontina-and-apple panini with white-bean-and-ham soup - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Fontina-and-apple panini with white-bean-and-ham soup
Drizzly gray days can really amp up a restaurant diner's coziness requirement. On this late October morning, Barrio Bakery — on North Winooski Avenue in Burlington's Old North End — called to me.

I'd only visited once, and just for coffee, but I'd heard that Barrio's owners, Jessica and Ryan Bunce, are opening a breakfast and lunch café, dubbed One Radish, in the Richmond space formerly occupied by Parkside Kitchen (and before that, On the Rise Bakery).  It was time for a taste of the coming attractions.

Waiting in line to order, I noted the spot's friendly, neighborhood vibe. Nearly every person who walked through the door had a warm greeting for somebody who was already ensconced there. At one table, midwives talked about work. At several others, folks typed away on their laptops. One coffee drinker was reading a book by Haruki Murakami.

The pastry case was full of good-looking treats, including a savory tart, perfect-looking scones and croissants. Signs advertised additional offerings such as panini, a recent addition to the Barrio menu. I wanted the one stuffed with fontina and apples, but I also wanted the white-bean-and-ham soup, so I ordered a combo ($7.50).

The sandwich was toasty and melty, with slices of apple falling out the side. The soup was satisfying and rustic — white beans, ham chunks and pieces of onion sat in the golden broth, and little globules of melted fat floated on top. I love fat, so I mean that in the best possible way.

There was enough cash left over for a nicely made soy cappuccino with a little bit of maple ($3.88), which served as dessert.

When One Radish opens, count me in.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Suzanne Podhaizer

Suzanne Podhaizer

Contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the former Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its flagship "Young Farmers' Conference." She can slaughter a goose,... more

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