Dining on a Dime: Allium | Bite Club
Pin It

Friday, January 12, 2018

Dining on a Dime: Allium

Posted By on Fri, Jan 12, 2018 at 3:16 PM

click to enlarge Onion soup at Allium in Waterbury. - SALLY POLLAK
  • Onion soup at Allium in Waterbury.
The name of the restaurant is Allium, so it seemed like a good idea to order something from the onion family. There was another reason to choose the house soup for lunch at the café on Main Street in Waterbury: price.

The soup costs $8. I was trying to eat on the cheap — $12 or under — at a restaurant where that's a bit of a challenge to do. The house burger is $16. An Italian sandwich is $14, steak frites $19.  The $12 grilled eggplant and olive  sandwich tempted me, but it was a cold and slushy day. Souped seemed right.

To hit the $12 mark, not including tax and tip, I added a deviled eggs ($4) to my soup. Placing the order from my seat at the bar, I noted that it was perhaps an odd combo.

"No judgement here," the bartender assured me.

That was kind, but I'll go on to make a judgement here: The onion soup earns high marks in my fussy-onion-soup category.  This is soup with a potential for greatness that sometimes delivers as much flavor as dishwater.

Allium's version was first-rate: a melange of onions, shallots and scallions in a rich broth sweetened by caramelized onions and a little brandy. Served in a traditional crock-bowl, the soup was topped with crusty Red Hen Baking  croutons and melted Gruyere cheese made at Cobb Hill Farm in Hartland.

As for the deviled egg, topped with minced lobster and capers and sprinkled with parsley, it was a cut above the backyard picnic variety. The pairing had a French flair in an American brewpub town.

Allium opened last fall in the space formerly occupied by Arvad's Grill, a Waterbury mainstay for more than 25 years.  My purely selfish wish for Allium is that it sticks around long enough for me to get a second bowl of its house soup.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

Tags: , , , , ,

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

Pin It

Did you appreciate this story?

Show us your ❤️ by becoming a Seven Days Super Reader.

Related Locations

About The Author

Sally Pollak

Sally Pollak

Sally Pollak is a Seven Days staff writer.

More by Sally Pollak


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Keep commenting classy! Read our guidelines...

Note: Comments are limited to 300 words.

More on Dining on a Dime

Latest in Bite Club

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative

All content © 2018 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Website powered by Foundation