Sometimes you've got to pick a restaurant by its name, and on those occasions it's hard to look past Misery Loves Co. Saturday at noon, with no food in the house, was one of those times. I headed to Winooski.
Misery lived up to its name when I walked in the door and Excitable Boy by Warren Zevon was playing — banging home my choice, literally, with a couple of piano chords.
The other day I unexpectedly discovered a new sign of aging: the inability to eat both halves of eggs Benedict at 8:30 in the morning. (It's still probably doable by 11.)
I was sitting at the pink counter of Malletts Bay Diner & Bakery in Colchester with a perfect-plus specimen of the meal before me. The food was perfect because each egg rested like a puffed-up pillow on its split of English muffin, ready to squirt and ooze with the first prick of my fork. The hollandaise sauce was thick and dripping over the edge, topped by a sprinkle of paprika.
Maybe it was the gray-haired group in the corner talking about cholesterol levels. Or it could've been my inability to choose among maple cheesecake, blueberry scones, croissants, peanut butter pie and pumpkin roll with spiced cream cheese frosting. Or, possibly to rip off the book Goodnight Moon, I was simply in the mood for a bowl of mush.
For whatever reason, or no reason at all, I ordered oatmeal ($8.25) on a recent morning at Chef's Corner. The Williston café and bakery moved in August from its longtime home next to Lenny's Shoe & Apparel to a different mini-mall in the same town. (Another small branch is located in the Flynndog building in Burlington's South End.)
Here's a fun and easy spring thing. These eggs are more of a technique than a specific recipe. The idea is this: Sauté a bunch of stuff in a skillet — in this case, potatoes, sausage, dandelion greens and wild leeks, but you could use asparagus and bacon instead — then crack a few eggs in there and cook them until they're sunny-side up.
Add soft cheese (and blue cheese, too, why not?) for extra fun. The main thing is that everything should be fully cooked before the eggs go in. For something so easy, the end result is impressive to look at and so, so yummy!
A popover is a special thing. It's that puffed-up, hollow globe related to the pancake but also to the muffin; all custardy insides and a craggy crust that tastes of browned butter. I’ll make a pilgrimage for a good popover, especially the slightly salty kind: malty on the outside and steaming with herb butter when the top is pried apart.
At 195 Falls Road in Shelburne, Rustic Roots turns out popovers that rank among the best. Bonus: I get that warm muffin-pancake sided with soft-poached eggs, home fries, housemade coffee-maple sausage, and thick slabs of Canadian bacon.
Vermonters who grew up out of state might recall family breakfasts at chrome-plated diners, where pages-long laminated menus offered eggs, French dip sandwiches, gyros and ice cream sundaes, accompanied by full-color photos of each dish.
Kids from here, however, are more likely to remember greasy breakfasts courtesy of shingled roadside shacks, summer snackbars and truck stops, where aging waitresses would offer O.J. in brown plastic tumblers and jiggly eggs mixed with cheddar cheese, served with home-baked bread.
On the eastern side of the state, P&H Truck Stop, just off of Exit 17 on Interstate 91 in Wells River, is a breakfast institution. Bakers prepare fresh breads and dozens of pies daily, made with old-fashioned shortening crusts and filled with everything from blueberries or apples to pecans, maple or coconut custard. The peanut butter cream is a local favorite. As teenagers, my friends and I would stop by for a late-night slice of pie or plate of French fries — the dining room was open 24 hours then.
Starting just after 5 a.m. daily — except on Tuesdays, when the restaurant is closed — early birds and locals shuffle in to the Parson's Corner in Barton. Some perch on the round stools at an L-shaped counter and banter with the cook. Others head to booths in the restaurant's sunny dining room, which was once the parlor of a minister in service to the Congregational Church just across the way.
Diners come for breakfast — homey updates on chrome classics such as eggs with bacon or steak or corned beef hash, melty three-egg omelets or flapjacks as big as your face and glazed with maple syrup.
One of the most fun meals I ate in 2016 was at Stowe's Picnic Social, which is located inside of Field Guide, a boutique hotel on the Mountain Road. In between bites of nearly everything on the menu, my guest and I played cornhole and tabletop shuffleboard. We joked around with the staff. Best of all, the food and drinks tasted great.
So, when I found out that the spot would be adding brunch on December 10, I couldn't wait to try it out. Just an hour after brunch service debuted, I showed up with a friend to sample the wares. Only one other party preceded us, but, as we ate, more and more folks trickled in.
Few Sunday pleasures are more sublime than a great breakfast buffet. But what, exactly, defines great?
In West Topsham, Limlaw Family Maple Farm opens its sunny post-and-beam sugarhouse for a Sunday breakfast series twice a year. In the spring, when the sap is flowing, and again in October, when Vermont's sugarbushes shift from green to splashy yellow, orange and red.
This year's fall breakfast series began last weekend and runs each Sunday through October 30. Priced at $13.99 ($6.50 for kids under 6), it's cheaper than your average hangover brunch — and it's busy, so make reservations.
Which returns us to the question: What defines a great breakfast buffet?
Iced maple mochas, blueberry scone and pumpkin-chocolate chip cookie at Blank Page Café
Follow the curved dirt pathway off Cheese Factory Road in Shelburne and you’ll reach the farmstand at Bread and Butter Farm. Open the screen door and walk past the fridge stocked with grass-fed beef, the crates of apples and new potatoes, the table of late-season tomatoes and the reach-in cooler lined with raw milk from Henry’s Dairy and Sobremesa kimchi. There, you’ll find Blank Page Café, a pop-up coffee shop from partners Michael Proia and Katie Horner.
Blank Page opened at Bread and Butter Farm last fall, but, beginning this week, the café has extended its limited hours to serve Proia’s coveted butter coffee and gluten-free pastries Monday through Saturday.
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