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Dining on a Dime

Thursday, September 26, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Mimmo's Pizzeria & Restaurant

Posted By on Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 3:42 PM


Sara Rooke serves an eggplant parmesan hero at Mimmo's - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Sara Rooke serves an eggplant parmesan hero at Mimmo's
I thought about bringing my own crosswalk to Mimmo’s Pizzeria & Restaurant, the new restaurant in our South End neighborhood, but I remembered the city frowns upon  DIY safety measures.

Instead, I ran across Shelburne Road — praying mid-dash there was no car on the far side of the Jeep Cherokee I couldn’t see past. I made it.

I was surprised to find a full parking lot at Mimmo’s at 7 p.m. on a Tuesday.  The dining room was full, too, pulsing with a happy-sounding crowd. I found a seat at the end of the bar, where I was treated to a favorite view: cooks at work.

I watched the pizza guy spread ricotta on rounds of dough, and saw a line cook salt the ingredients in her sauté pans. The highlight of the show was flames shooting from a pan of penne alla vodka, a dramatic blaze produced by chef-owner Domenico Spano.  He opened his first Mimmo's in St. Albans in 1995, naming it with the nickname his mother gave him more than four decades ago in Torrito, Italy.

I turned away  from my view of the spiffy kitchen to look down at the menu, and chose on an eggplant parmesan hero ($9.25) and a pint of Switchback. While I waited for my food, two women who work at the restaurant, which opened a month ago,  raved about working at Mimmo's. They said they're treated like they're part of the family.

Lindsey Lowell, a delivery driver, said Spano gave her money from his pocket when she was “stiffed” on a catering delivery. He solicits and listens to input from employees, she said.  “He takes everyone’s ideas,” Lowell said. “I love it here.”

Penne alla vodka ablaze in the Mimmo's kitchen - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Penne alla vodka ablaze in the Mimmo's kitchen
My server, Sara Rooke, graduated last spring from St. Michael's College, where she majored in international relations.  “I love people,” she said.

Rooke delivered my sandwich with a flair worthy of the little package of classic Italian-American flavors — garlic, parmesan, breading, red sauce — piled on my bread.  She stopped by to talk as I ate my meal, making me feel like I was part of the family.

“I’m a broke college student and I would love to dine on a dime, or even a nickel," Rooke said. "Can you do a nickel for me?”

When there was a lull in the kitchen action, Spano came out to the bar and we talked for a bit. He told me he left his home in southern Italy — where his father farmed olives, grapes, almonds and legumes — at age 14 to live with relatives in Long Island.

“I cried when I left,” said Spano, who learned English at high school in New York. “But I wanted to make a future.”

At his new restaurant, he's back in the kitchen — prepping, cooking, mopping, training — after years of  mostly office work managing his restaurants in St. Albans and Essex.  Spano plans to throw a grand opening party on Saturday, October 19, three days before his 49th birthday.

“I just can’t help myself,” Spano said of his decision to open a third Mimmo's. “I love building crews and restaurants. It gives me gioia di vivere.”
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Saturday, September 14, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Syp Brand Pierogi

Posted By on Sat, Sep 14, 2019 at 9:21 AM

Invitation to Pierogi Mondays by Syp Brand Pierogi - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Invitation to Pierogi Mondays by Syp Brand Pierogi
The best story pitch I've ever gotten might be the hand-drawn invitation that arrived on my desk from Miranda Syp. A note on the back read, "Hello! My name is Miranda Syp of Syp Brand Pierogi, LLC. I'd like to invite you to my next Pierogi Monday."

I'm a sucker for pop-ups and for pierogi, so this one was a no-brainer. As a bonus, these pierogi prices align quite nicely with the parameters of Dining on a Dime.

Syp has been making her "little pockets of love" since 2009, when she was living in Barre and received a grant from the Central Vermont Community Action Council. Working out of the L.A.C.E. community kitchen, Syp made pierogi for pop-up dinners and sold them wholesale and at farmers markets. 
Miranda Syp at Barrio Bakery - COURTESY OF MIRANDA SYP
  • Courtesy of Miranda Syp
  • Miranda Syp at Barrio Bakery
When she moved to Burlington, Syp continued the business by popping up at the now closed Cobblestone Deli and Café on Battery Street in 2012.

Now, pierogi lovers can find Syp at Barrio Bakery.  Since June, she has been taking over the café on the first Monday of the month — serving potato-cheddar pierogi in place of pastries and cold brew.

At the pop-up, a plate of six pierogi is $9, and a plate with salad is $12. Both options come piled with sour cream, onions and Pitchfork Farm & Pickle sauerkraut.  The salad is dressed with a bright, tangy vinaigrette, which Syp said is an homage to her childhood visits to her Polish grandmother in France.

"My grandmother was a potato farmer in Poland, but she moved to France before the war because of a potato famine," said Syp. "The plate I serve is sort of a French-American-Polish fusion, which really represents who I am."
Pierogi plate with salad at the Syp Brand Pierogi pop-up - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Pierogi plate with salad at the Syp Brand Pierogi pop-up
The pierogi are filled with potato and  Vermont cheddar, instead of the farmers' cheese that Syp's grandmother would have used. More than just fitting into Syp's geographic life story, the sharpness of the cheddar is a perfect complement to the sweetness of the onions and the sour zing from the sauerkraut that tops them.

The salad is worth the extra $3, both to contrast the heartiness of the pierogi and to really understand Syp's culinary point of view. With both on the plate, it's a filling — and delightful — dinner.

Pierogi Monday pop-up at Barrio Bakery - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Pierogi Monday pop-up at Barrio Bakery
People seemed to agree, as there was a steady line all night and Syp had sold out fully by 7:45 p.m. "I felt like I had to educate people about pierogi when I started, but people know about them now," she said.

Syp is looking forward to increasing her pop-up nights at Barrio to include both the first and the third Mondays of the month, from 6 to 8 p.m. starting in October.

Beyond that, she wants to keep things small and stick with pop-ups. A conversation with a customer at the most recent pop-up reinforced her focus on bringing people from the neighborhood together.

The customer mentioned the Polish "bar mleczny," or "milk bars."  These cafeterias are subsidized by the state, offering low-priced menu items that draw in people from every social category for an egalitarian, affordable meal. Now that's dining on a dime.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Thursday, September 5, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Tomgirl Kitchen

Posted By on Thu, Sep 5, 2019 at 9:11 AM


Salad bowl at Tomgirl Kitchen - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Salad bowl at Tomgirl Kitchen
The South End Art Hop begins on Friday, September 6. A couple of days before the festivities I stopped for lunch at Tomgirl Kitchen in the Soda Plant on Pine Street. The building will be the site of art exhibits this weekend, but a set of vivid colors — purple, orange, green, pink and yellow — was on display at Tomgirl before the show began.

Red cabbage and beets, carrots and pickled squash, kale and cucumbers, radishes and bell peppers, were the source of the rainbow atop Tomgirl’s counter. They formed the ingredients of a make-your-own salad bowl for $10.95, though its actual construction was performed by a pro behind the counter.

All I had to do was point to my choice of grain, the four veggies I wanted, my protein pick, and select any add-on seeds that struck my fancy. Before my eyes, a salad took shape on a bed of arugula and kale, topped with a scoop of black rice and spoonfuls of local cucumber, cabbage, beets and pickled squash.

I chose avocado for my protein  and said yes to hemp seeds, sunflower seeds and dried apricots. With a few squirts of cilantro-lime-curry dressing, lunch was served. I ate at a picnic table outside the Soda Plant.

Some businesses in the building were getting ready for Art Hop, including special pickle prep at Pitchfork Farm & Pickle, and chit-chat at Brio Coffeeworks about the Latte Art Throwdown to be held there on Saturday, September 7.
Salad bar at Tomgirl Kitchen - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Salad bar at Tomgirl Kitchen
Over the weekend, Tomgirl will team up with Co Cellars, a drink biz in the Soda Plant, on an Art Hop peach mimosa, according to Tomgirl owner Gabrielle Kammerer.  Co Cellars is a hot company to pair with: A joint venture of  ZAFA Wines and Shacksbury Cider, Co Cellars was recently named one of the 100 greatest places in the world  to eat and drink by Time.

It’s a small room with a bar, some benches and barrels, and glass vessels that hold “just fucking fermented juice,” to borrow ZAFA’s motto.

As a longtime Pine Street walker — and Bob Dylan fan — I can attest that the street has changed over the years from a dining "Desolation Row"  to a foodie "Positively Fourth Street." Now it’s broken into the world’s top 100.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Friday, August 16, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Starving Artist Café

Posted By on Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 6:08 PM

Veggie-stuffed hash special at Starving Artist Café - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Veggie-stuffed hash special at Starving Artist Café
You don't hear much about "full artists," but after stopping for lunch at South Burlington's Starving Artist Café, I think it may be time to flip the trope.

Starving Artist Café is part of Davis Studio, which was founded in 2003 by director Teresa Davis. Located inside a stately tan house with white columns on Shelburne Road in South Burlington, the studio offers classes and camps focused on the arts for creative folks of all ages, from drawing and painting to jewelry making and fused glass work. On a weekday in August, every room was full of young artists putting the right side of their brains to work.

Service counter at Starving Artist Café - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Service counter at Starving Artist Café
The café itself has been open for three years, and offers counter service for breakfast and lunch during the week and a full-service weekend brunch. Walking through the front door feels like entering someone's home, with a maze of cozy, art-covered rooms vying for attention.

My dining companions (two writers from the Seven Days arts team, appropriately) and I made a wrong turn trying to find the café's service counter and took a detour through the bustling dining room before spying the "order here" sign — we brushed it off as trying to engage the creative side of our brains, too.

Finally in the right place, we grabbed menus and tried to decide between the aptly named breakfast and lunch offerings. Was I in the mood for Monet's Garden Omelette, Matisse in Morocco, or Vincent Van Goghgurt?

Always pro-breakfast (which is served all day at the Starving Artist), I ordered one of the day's specials: a vegetable-stuffed hash with sunny-side-up eggs and cheddar ($12). One coworker went for a sandwich with bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam ($10). The other opted for a classic grilled cheese ($6) with a cup of tomato-basil soup ($3.50).

We grabbed water and coffee from the self-service station and headed into the gallery room to find an open table. The walls were covered in food-related 
From left: Bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam sandwich; veggie hash special; grilled cheese and tomato-basil soup - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • From left: Bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam sandwich; veggie hash special; grilled cheese and tomato-basil soup
art, upon which we feasted our eyes while we waited for our meals to arrive. 

At the far end of the long, open room, young artists returned to their tables. We braced ourselves, ready for the noise level to go way up.

We must have been channelling our own post-lunch behavior back in our school days, though, because this was a quiet, focused group. The instructor told us this was the Advanced Drawing Camp, full of talented, diligent artists in middle and high school. Impressed, we tried to keep our voices down so we wouldn't distract them from their work.

The chef brought our food to the table, and my hash could have been a Cézanne still life. The eggs' bright-yellow yolk and perfectly crisped edges popped on top of a hefty pile of hash, sprinkled with microgreens for color and crunch. The hash was a mix of potatoes, spinach, mushrooms and sweet cherry tomatoes, bound together with Vermont cheddar. I poked the tines of my fork into the yolks, letting them drip down into the crispy hash. We didn't have to worry about keeping our voices down any more; none of us said a word while we chowed down.

Feeling full and inspired, we bussed our dishes and headed toward the door. On the way out, I noticed a group of chefs in a side room. These were slightly smaller than the chef who had prepared our lunch, but decked out in colorfully painted aprons and chef hats. It was the Artsy Chef camp, for 8-12 year olds.

For these campers, food is the medium instead of oils and acrylics. The artists create edible landscapes and fantastical centerpieces like pineapple alligators and eggplant owls, as well as decorative cupcakes and precise bento boxes. If preregistration weren't required (and adults were allowed), I would have stayed there all afternoon.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Friday, August 2, 2019

Dining on a Dime: August First Bakery

Posted By on Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 2:26 PM

The Vermonter at August First Bakery - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • The Vermonter at August First Bakery
Ten years ago, when August First Bakery opened on South Champlain Street in Burlington, the café donated its first-day sales — about $300 — to King Street Center, a neighboring nonprofit organization.

On Thursday, to celebrate its 10th anniversary, August First once again donated 100 percent of its sales for the day to the nonprofit that provides programs and services for young people. This time, the restaurant wrote a check for $9,338.57 to King Street, said Jodi Whalen, who owns the restaurant with her husband Phil Merrick.

Whalen explained that, as a child growing up in small-town Pennsylvania, she was “personally touched” by adults who worked at organizations similar to King Street. Their positive influence on Whalen “helped me to become the woman I am personally and professionally,” she told Seven Days.

“We love the work that King Street Center does for children and families in our community,” Whalen added. “And we feel that it is our responsibility as business owners to give back.”

I pitched in a pittance of the total, $12, for a sandwich that served two. I ate half  the sandwich, called the Vermonter, at August First; my daughter took her share to North Beach.  The smoked turkey sandwich with cheddar cheese, apple slices, lettuce and red onion was a hit for both of us.

“It was even good cheese,” said my college-age kid, who routinely removes cheese from her sandwiches. (WTF?!) “I didn’t even take it off!”

My lemonade was free at August First, made by two Burlington middle school students who attend programs at King Street. Bree McDonald and Yusuf Ibrahim, both 12 years old, usually make and serve lemonade at King Street’s stand on the Church Street Marketplace.
Yusuf Ibrahim (left) and Bree McDonald - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Yusuf Ibrahim (left) and Bree McDonald
Thursday, they squeezed lemons and shook the drink outside August First. It was a steady gig, but the soon-to-be seventh graders took time to tell me about the after-school program at King Street.

“We have a gym, a playground, and we go on different trips,” said Yusuf, who added that he likes to play tennis there. Bree said she especially enjoys playing dodgeball and basketball in the gym.

Both kids ate lunch at August First that day: Yusuf had a turkey BLT; Bree ate the tomato-mozzarella-basil sandwich and gave a shout-out to its pesto.
They also praised the day’s mission of raising money for the center.

“I think it’s pretty nice of them to do that,” Bree said.

Yusuf concurred: “It’s pretty cool,” he said, “cause it’s nice for King Street.”
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Thursday, July 18, 2019

Dining on a Dime: The Crooked Ram

Posted By on Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 8:00 AM

Housemade cheese scones at the Crooked Ram - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Housemade cheese scones at the Crooked Ram

What’s the going rate for 26 pounds of honey? At the Crooked Ram in Manchester, it’s a whole lot of store credit. And while that’s not how I paid for this Dining on a Dime adventure, if I ever come into a windfall of the sweet stuff, I know where I’ll spend it.


The taproom on Manchester’s main drag is a drinking destination — the only place in town dedicated to craft beer, cider and natural wine — and it doesn’t take much to be a regular.

“Most of our customers are from out of state,” said owner Peter Campbell. I’m no local to southern Vermont, but Campbell remembered me from my first visit a few months before. We’d ranted about the lack of beverage producers in Bennington County while I stood at the bar sipping a glass of Fable Farm Fermentory’s Fluxion III. This time, though, I was focused on eating, not ranting.


The Crooked Ram opened in early 2017 as a bottle shop, but during its annual “Mud Season Break” last year, Campbell renovated the space to offer on-premise consumption and a perfect-for-drinking food menu.

“We have limited room, so we’re just serving what we really love,” he said, pointing to the tiny kitchen hidden behind a stack of kegs. The chalkboard lists a selection of local cheese and charcuterie, classic bar snacks and a few heftier lunch items.


I ordered the housemade cheese scone, paired with smoked ham and fermented garlic honey ($9). The honey made my decision for me, after Campbell poured me a spoonful to taste. “One of the neighboring farmers showed up with 26 pounds of the stuff, all in huge mason jars,” he explained. The farmer meant it as a gift, but Campbell insisted on paying him in IPAs.

Like any good fermentation fanatic, Campbell added garlic and let it bubble away. The result was a savory-sweet shock, all garlic on the nose and mellow honey in the finish. It could have been an at-home cold remedy, and I wanted more of it immediately.


I spotted a sheepskin-laden bench in the open dining area and settled in. My meal arrived on a board; the scone, a hearty pile of ham, and the mystical honey were lined up and ready for me to DIY. As far as scones go, Campbell clarified that “it’s really one foot in scone and one foot in biscuit.”

Semantics aside, it was warm, and a perfectly melty combination of King Arthur Flour, buttermilk and Jasper Hill Farm’s Melting Blend. The ham, sourced from the Vermont Butcher Shop just down the street, was brined for seven days and smoked in-house. It could have passed for brisket with its dark, crispy edges. I slathered the scone with honey, slapped on a piece of ham, and marveled at its power to really make me want a beer. Thankfully, I was in the right place.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Friday, June 21, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Stone Corral Brewery

Posted By on Fri, Jun 21, 2019 at 12:41 PM

Grilled corn and a chickpea taco at Stone Corral Brewery - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Grilled corn and a chickpea taco at Stone Corral Brewery
The server at Stone Corral Brewery in Richmond used perfect timing when he spoke these words to me:  ”The tyranny of choice.”

He was looking at me with a smile as I studied the menu, trying to choose what to eat with my grilled corn on the cob ($4). I felt the pressure, but kept reading the list. When I selected the last thing on the menu, a taco called Ganesh to Meet Yah, he was kind enough to affirm my choice with a quiet “Yay!”

The name of the taco meant nothing to me, but its ingredients were irresistible: curried vegetable chickpeas, cucumber, apple, Napa cabbage and pea shoot slaw, toasted sesame, coconut yogurt dressing. With a green salad, this beautiful assemblage totaled $7.

The melding of flavors and textures was terrific. The food filled a plate that I measured with my iPhone: a diameter of two phones, or close to a foot. The prep cook deserves a loud shout-out: the apple slivers were as uniform as matchsticks, with a speck of color — the skin — at each end.

We ate on the patio, where three Chittenden County brewers sat at a nearby table and a young family filled another one. With our glasses of  dark lager,  Stone Corral's Black Beer, the early evening supper was a calling card for summer in Vermont.

Sometimes a reporter can ask one too many questions, and I went over the mark when I asked our server if he had coined the phrase “tyranny of choice.”

It turns out he heard it on a TED Talk, delivered by a shrink. But I prefer to imagine the words originate with a curly-haired kid in a Richmond taproom.  If he didn’t invent the line, he knew just when to steal it.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Sunday, June 9, 2019

Dining on a Dime: A & W Drive-In

Posted By on Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 1:31 PM

A&W on Route 7 in Middlebury - SABINE POUX
  • Sabine Poux
  • A&W on Route 7 in Middlebury
A newly minted 21-year-old, I’m still in the honeymoon phase with beer. I love the stuff in all its forms, from overpriced IPA to cheap supermarket six-packs. But last week, I had a hankering for a different kind of brew, the kind that begs to be served with a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream.

So, two friends and I caravanned to the A & W in Middlebury to satisfy our RBF (root beer float) cravings. It was a hot day, so we plopped down under a big shady tree next to the parking lot. A couple of other families ate from their cars, trays clipped to the open windows. If it wasn’t for the beautiful Green Mountain backdrop, we could have been at any one of the chain’s thousands of locations.

The 100-year-old greasy, meaty establishment was an unlikely choice for two of us: I’m a vegetarian, and one companion was trying to limit her caloric intake. Regardless, all of us were determined to get gut-bustingly full.

I had already done the math: a regular-size root beer float was $4, so I had approximately $8 to spend on food to fall within the $12 Dining on a Dime price limit. I was delighted to see a veggie option on the menu, meaning I didn’t have to fall back on my usual fast-food last resort of side dishes.

While I’m sure a large order of cheese curds ($6.95) or onion rings ($3.75) would have made for a filling meal, I opted for the black bean burger and made it a basket, which came with fries and a teeny container of coleslaw for $7.75. Most menu items are priced about the same, each with a cheaper sandwich-only version.

Our smiley waitress, wearing one of the brand’s characteristic orange baseball caps, brought all our food over at once in plastic baskets, the kind that usually house chicken tenders at themed diners. I unwrapped the burger from its foil, and found exactly what I expected: a once-frozen patty, enhanced with a single leaf of lettuce and a slice of tomato, sandwiched in a doughy bun.

It was as all-American as a veggie burger could be. The burger itself tasted familiar, which I later found out was because it’s Morningstar Farms brand; this A & W doesn’t sell the Beyond Burger like some other locations. I found it as tasty as it was predictable (which is to say, very).
Diggin' into a black bean burger - SABINE POUX
  • Sabine Poux
  • Diggin' into a black bean burger
The fries were yummy, too — but soggy enough to warrant the use of a fork. The coleslaw unexpectedly contained pineapple, which I kind of liked.

But the main attraction was my RBF, its foam spilling over the top of the tankard. I employed both spoon and straw to tackle the behemoth, alternating bites and slurps until I could see the bottom of the glass. The ice cream was a bit grainy, owing to freezer burn, but it hit the spot just the same. Cold and sugary, like any float should be.
A photogenic root beer float - SABINE POUX
  • Sabine Poux
  • A photogenic root beer float
My friends were equally satisfied. One of them, who's trying to increase his caloric intake this summer, ordered the Coney chili dog basket and a vanilla shake, which clocked in at 1,605 calories and $9.20. (The shake had a bad case of freezer burn.) My friend trying to reduce calories got a corn-dog basket with sweet potato fries for 370 calories and $8.50.

Good thing we were eating outside, because that ish was messy. And among the three of us, quite a bit of plastic, paper and styrofoam was left over at the end. That ’50’s feel comes at the price of sustainability.

Lots of leftover fries, too, because the portions were huge. As far as Dining on a Dime is concerned, the A & W's  food-to-price ratio is as good as it comes. I recommend pairing it with a swim at the quarry down the road, though it’s probably best to do the swimming first.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Friday, May 31, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Bluebird Barbecue

Posted By on Fri, May 31, 2019 at 4:07 PM

Brisket BBQ Banh Mi at Bluebird Barbecue - SOPHIE X. POLLAK
  • Sophie X. Pollak
  • Brisket BBQ Banh Mi at Bluebird Barbecue
Earlier this spring, Bluebird Barbecue expanded its hours to include lunch six days a week. Now the restaurant on Riverside Avenue in Burlington is offering a lunch special: $10 for a BBQ Banh Mi sandwich stuffed with smoked meat, chicken liver pâté, pickled veggies, pickles and cilantro.

The timing of this midday deal coincides with weather that’s just right for dining on the restaurant’s screened-in porch. The indoor-outdoor setting offers a lovely view of woods in the foreground and the Winooski River beyond.

Given three choices for the meat in my sandwich — brisket, pulled pork or turkey — I opted for brisket. (There's also a vegetarian option.) From a choice of sides that includes mac and cheese, cole slaw, smashed sweet potatoes, fries, and baked beans, I chose black-eyed pea salad with grilled broccoli and cauliflower, brightened by minced red pepper and onion.

The sandwich was packed and spilling from its baguette; the salad was a flavorful and healthful accompaniment. A glass of maple lemonade provided a seasonal sip to go with the view.
Barbecue sauce with a view - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Barbecue sauce with a view
Though the week-long BBQ Banh Mi special, which ends June 5, drew us to Bluebird for lunch, there are a handful of other menu items that are $12 or less. Most are starters, including grilled asparagus ($11), six smoked chicken wings ($11), and BBQ Poutine ($11).

The location itself feels like a special deal, a bug-free perch above the river and the trees, as the greens of  spring in Vermont reveal themselves. If the outside loses its scenic appeal, you can always look in the other direction at the big-screen bar TV showing baseball.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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Thursday, May 23, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Magic Hat Artifactory

Posted By on Thu, May 23, 2019 at 5:38 PM

Magic Hat #9 - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Magic Hat #9
No. 9, No. 9, No. 9, No. 9, No. 9, No. 9, No. 9.

I knew what I wanted before I walked in the door of the Magic Hat taproom in South Burlington, a beer bunker called the Artifactory.

Too much time had passed since I drank a Magic Hat #9 in its long-neck amber bottle with the psychedelic orange label that says it all: # 9. (That first mark is a number symbol, not a hashtag; the label was designed pre-hashtag: #artwork.)

At the Artifactory,  #9  flows from a tap.  For this refreshing and alluring ale, the tap is identified by an orange lever in the shape of a 9. The taproom — part merch machine, part neighborhood bar — has old #9  bottles on display. You can ogle the classic vessel, a handsome relic in the age of 16-ounce cans, while you drink. I ate hot pretzel pieces and a side of a cheesy-beer dipping sauce with my #9. Supper for one.

With the pretzels polished off, I took my beer on a self-guided tour of the brewery,  paying homage at a flashy # 9 emblem and soaking in the flavor of a sign announcing  "Low Key."

Artifactory sign - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Artifactory sign
My brewery stroll, which took about three minutes, peaked at a lookout over the production floor, still but for one forklift moving in reverse.  Back in the taproom, I took my last sips of #9 and listened to a couple of Bob Marley songs. Low Key.  Then I paid my $12.60 tab and left.

The next day, I called Magic Hat cofounder Alan Newman to ask him something I’d been wondering for about 20 years. What's #9 refer to?

“It was referring to my car, which was a Fiat X1/9,” he told me. “I tried to name it X9 and the X couldn’t be trademarked. We just dropped the X.”

The 1 "just didn’t make sense,” Newman added, when I pressed him on that number. So he called the beer #9. 

In the beer-naming game, it's a beauty.

Tap for Magic Hat #9 - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Tap for Magic Hat #9
Newman, 72, who sold his share of Magic Hat in 2010,  said if I want to make up a story about the origin of the beer's name, I have his permission.

But a little orange Fiat sports car as the driving force behind #9 is good enough for me.  I won’t reinvent the story — is it a scoop? — but I’ll dress it up: I imagine Newman driving around Burlington in his X1/9 listening to the Beatles' “Revolution 9” on the radio. When the song was over, I bet he cranked up the volume and played “Revolution.”

Magic Hat launched #9 in the summer of 1995, when the brewery was on Flynn Avenue in Burlington. The beer was made to be seasonal, Newman said, but his bar accounts had other ideas.

“They said if we stop selling  #9, they’d throw us out,” he said. “So we made it year-round.”
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].

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