Opinion | Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Opinion

Tuesday, January 2, 2018

A Food Resolution Round-Up

Posted By on Tue, Jan 2, 2018 at 4:22 PM

FILE: MICHAEL TONN
  • File: MIchael Tonn
During the winter doldrums, how and what we eat seems particularly important — whether to offset holiday excesses, fulfill New Year's resolutions, or find comfort from the cold. Whatever food indulgences we allow between Thanksgiving and New Year's Eve, most of us approach January with a little culinary restraint — and maybe ramp up the gym time.

A glimpse through the Seven Days archives reveals that our food writers past and present have different ways of dealing with dining in January. Here's a brief recap.

Longtime readers likely remember Alice Levitt for her larger-than-life persona and love of meat (her Vermont vanity plate read "bulgogi," referring to the Korean beef dish). But a January 2015 story was all about fresh produce. She even assembled a few coworkers for a juice tasting Melissa Haskin's tenure was short, but we still recall her "taco cleanse." How did that go? Not exactly as expected.  Corin Hirsch took the idea of cleansing a little more seriously, investigating various foods that can give the body a bit of a reboot without fasting. Her recommendations: astringent, acidic and bracing foods, such as bitters, lemon juice and curries.  Some people crave comfort in the cold, and Hannah Palmer Egan seems to be one of them. In January 2016, with help from Haskin, she gathered a sweet selection of slow-cooker recipes As for me, I tend to eat the same way I always do, but in the new year I might get a little sillier about it. For several years, I wrote up tongue-in-cheek guides to the hottest Vermont food trends.

Happy New Year!

Tags: , , , , ,

Friday, April 20, 2012

Grazing: 'Sup, Montcalm La Crescent?

Posted By on Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 4:06 PM

6a00d83451b91969e201676575fa64970b-pi.jpg

As the weather tries on spring for size, white wine is appearing in my glass more often than red. Specifically, that racy little white grape that's helping to put Vermont wines on the map.

A few weeks ago at the Woodstock Farmers Market, I saw a bottle of La Crescent I hadn't tried before, from Montcalm Vineyards in Benson. I don't know where I've been, as many others have been sipping on this while I've imbibed beloved versions from Lincoln Peak and Shelburne Vineyard. At $14.99, it's comparable in price, so I took home one of the tall, slender bottles.

Once I realized the man behind it is Ray Knutsen, the bottle gained some backstory. Knutsen is an elder of the Vermont wine scene, planting the first vines at his Champlain Valley Vineyards in 1978 when cold-hardy La Crescent was just a glimmer in some oenologist's eye.

I didn't wait for a spicy dish to pop open his La Crescent — the only excuse it took was a sunny weekend afternoon, and a friend to join me. This wine was juicy and alive. Pale gold in the glass, it has intense and heady aromas, reminiscent of lying underneath blooming honeysuckle bushes and apple trees.

On the first sip, all of that flowery promise turned to summer fruit, with off-dry, juicy waves of ripe peaches, pineapples and melons floating on that floral undercurrent, and a crisp acidity keeping the entire thing lively. At a lowish 10.5 percent alcohol, it could be called a sessionable wine, if such a term existed. (Thanks to the beer drinkers for that.)

The wine's sweetness marks it as an able escort to Pla Goong from Tiny Thai or any other spicy fish or poultry dish — it's a fine subsitute for Riesling. Me, I just drink it on its own.

 

Recent Comments

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2018 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Website powered by Foundation