Published May 4, 2021 at 10:00 a.m.
When we were kids, my siblings and I loved to go out to the bushes near our vegetable garden and fill buckets with black and red raspberries. We would bring them into the house in the hopes that our mom would make her delicious cobbler.
Later in life, I found out that Mom's recipe was not what most people think of as a cobbler. Typical American cobbler consists of fruit with a biscuit topping. Mom's started by melting a stick of butter on the bottom of a baking pan, adding generous amounts of fruit and, finally, topping it with a cake-like batter. Turns out, she learned this method from an Armenian woman she knew.
When I was looking through recipes for clafoutis — a French dish with fruit and a custardy, pancake-like batter — they reminded me of Mom's cobbler. Or, more precisely, its fancy French cousin. Traditional clafoutis uses cherries — with the pits still in them! It originated in the Limousin region of France and became popular throughout the country in the 19th century.
You can use any fruit you like in this dish. I've even seen recipes using clementines. I chose rhubarb because it will soon be popping up in gardens all over Vermont. And, just like zucchini in the summer, everyone seems to have extra to give away, freeze, or use in new and interesting recipes. Roasting the rhubarb before incorporating it into the dish ensures that it will be cooked through by the time the clafoutis is done, and it adds a little sweetness. I also added blueberries, which I love for their tart, bright flavor.
You can make the clafoutis in a 9-by-13-inch pan for a thin, pancake-y delight. Or you can opt for a 9-inch round pan (or even a 9-inch cast-iron frying pan) for a slightly thicker version. (The 9-inch round takes a bit longer to cook, so increase the baking time to around 45 minutes.) The batter can be thrown together in practically no time at all.
If you really wanted to get fancy, you could make a custard-like crème anglaise to pour on top. Or you could do what we did and serve it with rich vanilla ice cream.
This article was originally published in Seven Days' monthly parenting magazine, Kids VT.
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