Best Bites: One Federal, St. Albans | News | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Best Bites: One Federal, St. Albans 

I don't care about American food the way I care about Korean or Bosnian or Uyghur cuisine. It takes a lot for me to get excited about dishes most Americans consider standards.

That's why One Federal has been such a revelation. Never before did I think I could get so excited about an unadorned rack of lamb (pictured at right). But this one, seasoned with little more than salt and pepper — yet so juicily medium rare, with nary a trace of gaminess — has me dreaming.

The side of mac and cheese was among the best I’ve had. An Alfredo base makes the grown-up noodles creamy. Cheddar and high-quality Parmesan, brought from Italy by a friend of the chef, sharpen the flavor.

The kitchen knows how to fry. The chicken fingers (pictured) are stellar – ultra crispy and tender on the inside. The maple-bacon fritters are filled with green onions like light, fluffy scallion pancakes with a smoky sweetness. The fish and chips are chip-shop perfect, with little excess grease, an airy crust and fresh, moist fish. Over three visits, I found the fries reliably crisp and always perfectly seasoned. I recommend them with the Vermonter burger – a big ol’ patty glazed with maple syrup and topped with grilled apple, thick-cut bacon and sharp cheddar. 

With an onsite bakeshop, the desserts are bakery fresh. They even make the ice cream. Try the maple-walnut with a parfait glass of apple crisp. The brownie sundae, served with two giant triangles of maple bread pudding, are excellent, too.

Desserts, entrées and appetizers – I am trying to work my way through the whole menu. So far, I have literally said "Wow," upon tasting each dish.

One or more images has been removed from this article. For further information, contact
Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

Tags: ,

More By This Author

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.


Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative

All content © 2022 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401

Advertising Policy  |  Privacy Policy  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Help
Website powered by Foundation