Consider the Cream Puff at Evelyne's on Center in St. Albans | 7 Nights Spotlight | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Consider the Cream Puff at Evelyne’s on Center in St. Albans 

click to enlarge Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans

Consider the cream puff: A cloud of just-sweetened, tongue-tickling froth tucked into a petite pastry shell, the confection is just big enough to supply a few sublime bites. Depending on the season, Evelyn Martin fills hers with fruited cream or paints their lids with maple glaze.

Since Evelyne's on Center opened in downtown St. Albans in February 2015, the featherlight treats have been flying off the shelves.

click to enlarge Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans

But visitors to Martin's shop get more than sweet deals. She spends most of her time cooking out back but happily shares tips gleaned from more than three decades of making pastry at beloved Burlington-area spots such as the Daily Planet, Sneakers Bistro and the original Waterworks. Asked about holiday baking, she rattles off ideas: "Chocolate and peanut butter, dried fruits, dates, nuts, raisins, figs — you can add those to apple pies."

A modest case holds the day's sweets, each as appealing as the puffs: galettes cradling thin-sliced apples, peaches or cranberries; almond tarts with sliced nectarines, glistening with apricot glaze; cake rolls stuffed with buttercream and pistachios; nut bars spread with inky ganache.

click to enlarge Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Evelyn's on Center in St. Albans

To the right, a table holds stacked cookies wrapped in cellophane and meringues and macaroons in glass jars. Above these, a chalkboard — scribed in neat, colorful letters — proffers chicken-liver pâté, curried egg-salad sandwiches and split-pea soup. "Fresh baguettes, 3 p.m.," it finishes, inviting nearby workers to bring a warm loaf home for dinner.

Buying dessert for the family? There's plenty to choose from, but Martin's small cakes — carrot or chocolate or lined with ladyfingers and sized to feed two to six people — have been selling faster than she can make them. "I hear it all the time," Martin says: "'I'm so glad you make those small cakes, because you can have people over and there's none left over.'"

Yet another reason to come back for more.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2016.
Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

More By This Author

About The Author

Hannah Palmer Egan

Hannah Palmer Egan

Bio:
Hannah Palmer Egan is a food and drink writer at Seven Days.

About the Artist

Matthew Thorsen

Matthew Thorsen

Bio:
Matthew Thorsen was a photographer for Seven Days 1995-2018. Read all about his life and work here.

Comments


Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2021 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401
Advertising Policy  |  Contact Us
Website powered by Foundation