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Side Dishes: Radio Bean's sister resto opens

Burlington has lots of restaurants, but ¡Duino! (Duende), which opened last week in the former New World Tortilla spot on North Winooski Avenue, is unlike any of them. For one thing, the menu is composed of “global street food,” ranging from American sliders to buckwheat blintzes to an Israeli dish made with rice, lentils, fried pistachios and an exotic sauce.

For another thing, the pricing is both simple and inexpensive. “The menu is basically three tiered,” explains proprietor Lee Anderson, who also owns Radio Bean next door. Five bucks scores you something along the lines of a kebab or a Switchback-braised bratwurst with homemade sauerkraut. For $10, hungrier customers can make it a platter, with complementary side dishes. During dinner, daily specials go for $15. “The price point is really affordable, considering the quality of the ingredients we’re putting in,” Anderson opines.

The already-popular frites are made from a mix of russet potatoes, purple yams, sweet potatoes and taro, and come with a side of housemade banana ketchup. The full bar serves wine, high-end brews such as Allagash Tripel and, of course, lots of drinks made with coffee.

There’s also regular music, though it may not be the background most diners are accustomed to. “We have jazz night, and it’s not like Leunig’s jazz; there’s a full-out rockin’ band during dinner time,” Anderson says. “It’s kind of a crazy element.”

Things may be quieter at lunch, which will be available beginning next Monday. ¡Duino! (Duende) currently stays open daily from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m., but next week, says Anderson, service will start at 11 a.m. So you can get your duende on morning or night.

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Suzanne Podhaizer

Suzanne Podhaizer

Bio:
Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its flagship "Young Farmers' Conference." She can slaughter a... more

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