Green Cup Café & Bakery Finds Big Success in Small Waitsfield | 7 Nights Spotlight | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

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Green Cup Café & Bakery Finds Big Success in Small Waitsfield 

Published May 1, 2010 at 4:00 a.m.

click to enlarge The Green Cup in Waitsfield - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • The Green Cup in Waitsfield

It's rare enough to find exquisite fare in small-town Vermont. But to find a restaurant that serves it up at breakfast, lunch and dinner? Almost unheard of.

The Green Cup in Waitsfield does just that. Located on Bridge Street, the eatery is owned by its 35-year-old chef, Jason Gulisano, whose pedigree includes a stint at the Glendorn, a luxurious Relais & Chateaux property in Pennsylvania.

click to enlarge The Green Cup in Waitsfield - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • The Green Cup in Waitsfield

At the Cup, the day starts with plenty of creative egg options. At lunch, panini sandwiches for $6.95 combine Thai shrimp with cabbage kimchi, or lamb shoulder with Manchego cheese, green olives and eggplant. The ever-changing dinner menu is packed with local fare served with uncommon flair, but it also includes a particularly fine selection of seafood.

In the casual front room, with a peek-a-boo view of the kitchen, rustic décor — antique cooking implements and a painting of a chicken — is a counterpoint to a wall lined with gilt-framed mirrors. The cozier back room is a bit more elegant.

But no matter where you're seated, the food looks breathtaking. "Nuggets" of lobster arrive in a creamy risotto studded with baby asparagus and crispy shallots. The sauce on the dish is frothed so it looks like a roiling ocean. Fluorescent pink tuna tartare is lightly dressed with olive oil, mirin and herbs and enclosed on all sides by a fortress of potato chips: impossibly thin tuber slices fried to a rich gold.

Happily, the food tastes as good as it looks. Every piece of monkfish or squab is matched with a harmonious selection of flavorful ingredients, including items such as aged sherry, braised lentils, handmade herb pasta and crispy leeks. The results are outstanding.

A slab of snowy coconut cake — beloved by Mark Bittman of the New York Times — makes a delightful end to a meal.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2010.
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About The Author

Suzanne Podhaizer

Suzanne Podhaizer

Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its flagship "Young Farmers' Conference." She can slaughter a goose, butcher a pig, make ramen from scratch, and cook a scallop perfectly.


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