In Essex, Citizen Cider Is All About Apples — and Good Cheer | 7 Nights Spotlight | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

In Essex, Citizen Cider Is All About Apples — and Good Cheer 

Published April 1, 2013 at 10:00 a.m. | Updated April 11, 2019 at 3:55 p.m.

click to enlarge Citizen Cider - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Citizen Cider

For years, hard cider was the awkward little sister of craft beer — especially in Vermont, a state with more breweries per capita than any other. No longer: A handful of farms and companies are reviving Vermont's centuries-old cider-making tradition, turning out sparkling, hard and ice ciders that run the gamut from slightly sweet to bone dry.

Location Details Citizen Cider
316 Pine St., Suite 114
Burlington, VT

Citizen Cider has the goods — and an underground party every Friday night that feels like something out of the Prohibition era. It's not easy to locate the place in the maze of Fort Ethan Allen. But those in the know push open a heavy wooden door at the back of the building to find an aromatic room that hosts plastic tanks full of fermenting apple juice and shoulder-to-shoulder people holding tulip-shaped glasses of cider.

click to enlarge Citizen Cider - MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen
  • Citizen Cider

The shindig goes down in the very same converted grain warehouse where three friends — a wine retailer, a farmer and a chemist — began making cider two years ago, using a salvaged 1950s apple press and fruit from Middlebury's Happy Valley Orchard. Their original aim was to create a drink that fused the best qualities of Champagne and slightly effervescent Vinho Verde. The result was the inaugural 5000-gallon batch of fizzy, golden Unified Press, Citizen's signature cider.


Kris Nelson, Bryan Holmes and Justin Heilenbach have all quit their day jobs to tend to the business of shipping Unified Press to meet the growing demand all over Vermont. They've added a cider fermented with blueberries, another with cranberries and still another, dry-hopped. All of the varieties are at the Friday night parties, where cider flows freely behind a long wooden bar, and broadcasters from nearby Vermont Public Radio mingle with St. Michael's College students.

Those 21 and over, that is. This stuff isn't apple juice.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2013.
Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

More By This Author

About The Author

Corin Hirsch

Corin Hirsch

Corin Hirsch was a Seven Days food writer from 2011 through 2016. She is the author of Forgotten Drinks of Colonial New England, published by History Press in 2014.

About the Artist

Matthew Thorsen

Matthew Thorsen

Matthew Thorsen was a photographer for Seven Days 1995-2018. Read all about his life and work here.


Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative

All content © 2022 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401

Advertising Policy  |  Privacy Policy  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Help
Website powered by Foundation