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Pie to the Nth Power 

Local pastry pushers dish about the all-American dessert

Published September 5, 2007 at 7:09 p.m.

I hate to be the one to break it to you, but autumn is just around the corner. You can feel it in the newly chilly nights and the - gasp - Halloween displays in stores. But along with the inexorable approach of winter, cooler weather brings a few things to look forward to, particularly if you're a foodie. Think mounds of pumpkin and acorn squashes and gallons of freshly pressed sweet and tart cider. Piles of locally grown Paula Reds and green-and-red-streaked Gravensteins started appearing in stores just last week.

One of the best things about fall is the renewed desire to cook and bake. When your home is already as hot as an oven, turning the thing on seems unthinkable. But when the temperature falls sharply at dusk, whipping up a crisp crumble or buttery buckle is a grand way to spend an evening. And if you're really into baking, you can always find an excuse to make America's favorite dessert.

In America, we love pie so much that we sing songs and make movies about it. (Though one might argue that neither Don McLean's "American Pie" nor the movie American Pie is actually about, well, pie.) But while people love the crisp/gooey combo of crust and filling, you hardly ever see it on the menu at a classy restaurant.

Why? "If I want a really nice pie, I might go and have my grandmother's pie," muses Ian Huizenga, executive chef at the Storm Café in Middlebury. "When I go to a restaurant, I'm not looking for pie."

Pastry Chef Roberta Blake of Gourmet Provence and Café Provence in Brandon echoes his sentiments. "It's more of a comfort food," she suggests. "When you go to a diner, you think pie. But when you're getting filet mignon you don't think of pie; you think of a triple-chocolate whatever."

The Storm Café does run a "glorified" banana cream pie, complete with fresh bananas, caramel sauce and whipped cream. But patrons don't rush to order the more standard versions. "If I have a chocolate decadence next to pie, the pie's not gonna sell," Huizenga explains.

Most bakers agree that the hardest part of making a good pie is creating the crust. But according to Amy Bell, owner of Foothills Bakery in Fairfax, the flaky stuff isn't actually that difficult. "The trick is just not to overwork it," she elucidates. Another tip: Use a metal scraper to lift the dough off the rolling board. "You just use a little flour . . . Once you roll it out, you put [the scraper] under the crust and flip it. Those things are really inexpensive."

For her part, Blake stresses the importance of pre-baking, also known as "blind baking," the bottom crust. One common method is to cover the pie shell in foil and weigh it down with rice or dried beans, which keep bubbles from forming. After a few minutes of baking, the foil is removed so the crust can brown. Though the extra step may seem like a hassle, it prevents the shell from getting soggy after the filling is added.

Where do the experts disagree? On the age-old "butter versus shortening" question. Bell opts for butter, but will occasionally include a bit of shortening. Blake is more of a purist: "I definitely make an all-butter crust . . . I have one recipe that took me years to find and I don't deviate from it." Did the former NECI instructor's recipe come from some fancy-schmancy pastry manual? Nope: It's "from a 30-year-old Good Housekeeping book," she admits.

Other bakers fall into the Crisco camp. Lisa Rock was hired this year to organize the Champlain Valley Fair's many culinary competitions. She thinks the hydrogenated-vegetable-oil product gives pies a cleaner taste: "Sometimes I like that buttery flavor, but I don't want it to overpower the filling." Sandi Niquette, who won her first Champlain Valley Fair Best in Show award for baking at the tender age of 14, is a shortening gal from way back. "Sometimes I'll throw butter in there, but mostly it's just Crisco," the Colchester resident says.

Niquette, whose cherry pie took home the gold in the fair's "David Grimm Cherry Pie Baking Competition" this year, has another tip for those who cringe at the prospect of making crust. "There's a trick that I actually learned a while ago of using either self-rising flour or adding a teaspoon of vinegar to your water, and that helps make the crust light."

Whatever she does, it works. In addition to her cherry coup, Niquette won the berry category a few years back with a blueberry-custard confection (see below). This year alone, she took home 15 ribbons for her cooking, including a "best in show" for her braided white bread. Another noteworthy accomplishment: second place in the "Fry It at the Fair" contest. Her winning entry consisted of balls of deep-fried mac 'n' cheese.

With a full-time job at Comcast, why does Niquette put in so much oven time? "To me, baking is love . . . that's how you show people you care for them, by baking them things," she says. But altruistic as the urge may be, she admits the adulation doesn't hurt: "You spend a while in the kitchen and you come out and you get immediate approval." Want some approval for yourself? Try one of the recipes to the left.


Raspberry-Apple Pie

From Amy Bell of Foothills Bakery, Fairfax

NOTE: Fall raspberries are now available; new apples are as well. Enjoy!

Double crust for a 9" pie

2 cups raspberries

4 cups apples

3/4 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup white sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

3 tablespoons cornstarch

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine raspberries, apples, brown sugar, white sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and cornstarch in a large bowl. Stir well to combine and allow to sit while you assemble and roll out the bottom crust. Pour fruit mixture into shell and dot with butter. Roll out top crust, and with a sharp knife, score in two or three places to create steam vents. Position crust over top of pie and crimp edges. If you like, lightly brush the top of the pie with milk or cream.

Bake for 15 minutes. Lower heat to 350 degrees and bake for another 25 minutes. Pie should be light brown and bubbly when removed from the oven.

Pumpkin Pecan Pie

From Sandi Niquette of



2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup chilled shortening

2 tablespoons chilled butter

4 tablespoons water

Pumpkin layer:

1 cup pumpkin

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

Pecan layer:

2/3 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup pecans

Combine flour and salt, cut in shortening and butter, and add water till dough holds together. Roll out crust and line a deep pie dish.

Combine pumpkin, sugar, egg and pumpkin pie spice; stir well. Spread over bottom of pie shell.

Combine maple syrup, sugar, eggs, butter and vanilla in same bowl; stir in nuts. Spoon over pumpkin layer.

Bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes, or until knife inserted in center comes out clean.

Blueberry Cream Pie

From Sandi Niquette of



1 1/3 cups vanilla wafer crumbs

2 tablespoons sugar

5 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

1/2 teaspoon vanilla


1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons flour

Pinch of salt

1 cup half & half cream

3 egg yolks, beaten

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon confectioner's sugar


5 cups fresh blueberries, divided

2/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Combine the four crust ingredients; press on bottom and up the sides of an ungreased 9-inch pie pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 8-10 minutes, or until crust just begins to brown. Cool.

In a saucepan, combine sugar, flour and salt. Gradually whisk in cream; cook and stir for two minutes more. Gradually whisk one cup hot filling into egg yolks, then return all to saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil; cook for two minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour into crust; sprinkle with confectioner's sugar. Chill for 30 minutes or until set.

Crush two cups of blueberries in a medium saucepan; bring to a boil. Boil for two minutes, stirring constantly. Press berries through a sieve. Set aside one cup juice (add water if necessary). Discard pulp.

In a saucepan, combine sugar and cornstarch. Gradually stir in blueberry juice; bring to a boil. Boil for two minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat; cool for 15 minutes. Gently stir in remaining berries; carefully spoon over filling. Chill three hours or until set. Store leftovers in refrigerator.

Lemon Sponge Pie

From Libby's Blue Line Diner

One 9" unbaked pie shell


3 eggs, separated

1 cup sugar

¼ cup melted butter

¼ cup flour

¼ cup lemon juice (from 1 medium lemon)

1 cup milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Beat egg whites until stiff; set aside. Beat yolks until "lemon-colored."

Stir melted butter, sugar, flour and lemon juice into yolks until well blended. Gradually stir in milk.

Fold in beaten egg whites and pour mixture into pie shell. Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until lightly browned and firm to touch.

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About The Author

Suzanne Podhaizer

Suzanne Podhaizer

Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its flagship "Young Farmers' Conference." She can slaughter a goose, butcher a pig, make ramen from scratch, and cook a scallop perfectly.


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