Bite Into a Risotto Beignet at Brown's Market Bistro in Groton | 7 Nights Spotlight | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Bite Into a Risotto Beignet at Brown’s Market Bistro in Groton 

click to enlarge Brown's Market Bistro - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-brodeur
  • Brown's Market Bistro

At first glance, not much appears to be going on in sleepy Groton, population 1022. There's a church, a green, a few houses and a creemee window.

Slow down, though, and you'll notice that the creemee window is connected to a "meadery," and across the street, there's an eatery called Brown's Market Bistro. People may associate Groton with its pristine forests, but this village quietly harbors a rich coterie of food professionals — among them, Brown's chef, Zachary Reid, a native Hawaiian who migrated here to learn about Vermont's famed farm-to-table fare.

click to enlarge Brown's Market Bistro - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-brodeur
  • Brown's Market Bistro

With so few potential customers in the area, Reid needs to be versatile. While he presides over a blazing oven that turns out cheesy, thin-crust pizzas to go, the chef also creates eclectic, big-flavor dishes for the bistro, a cozy dining room adorned with lace curtains and flower-topped tables.

Crisp risotto "beignets" are slathered in a sweet, roasted-red-pepper marinara sauce, then drizzled with a balsamic reduction that brings them to life. French fries are amped up with truffle oil. Confit duck tacos, almost too large and intense to eat in one sitting, are three crispy shells stuffed with sriracha-spiked meat, ginger-and-balsamic-laced slaw and Grafton Village Cheese Company smoked cheddar.

No rural Vermont restaurant can survive without a burger on the menu. At Brown's, it's not "Zachary's" burger but "Vinny's": PT Farm beef piled high with crispy bacon, a roasted portobello mushroom cap, fig-balsamic caramelized onions and the cheese of your choice.

Don't be shy about asking for a doggie bag. The request just might precipitate a tableside visit from the gregarious Reid, bearing complimentary crème brûlée.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2013.
Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

More By This Author

About The Author

Corin Hirsch

Corin Hirsch

Bio:
Corin Hirsch was a Seven Days food writer from 2011 through 2016. She is the author of Forgotten Drinks of Colonial New England, published by History Press in 2014.

Comments


Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2020 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401  |  Contact Us
Website powered by Foundation