Starting Fresh | Food News | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Starting Fresh 

Side Dishes: Montpelier's Thrush Tavern is reborn as Clean Slate Café

Published January 31, 2012 at 6:59 p.m.

With the legislative session going hot and heavy, folks under and around Montpelier’s golden dome are sure to be hungry. This month, they’ll have a new option for breakfast, lunch and dinner when Clean Slate Café opens in the turn-of-the-century building at 107 State Street, last occupied by the Thrush Tavern, which closed in 2008.

According to general manager David Wolfe, who also helped to open Caroline’s Fine Dining in Jericho, he and owner Athene Cua are working hard to make the café a departure from Thrush Tavern’s “smoke-filled back-room” atmosphere. “We just want a really comfortable place for people to have a little lunch, have a little breakfast and something a little bit nicer for dinner,” Wolfe explains.

Chef Jon Beresford has that covered with a seasonal menu of meals crafted from local ingredients. Diners can start the day with andouille sausage biscuits and gravy, a lighter take on the traditional Southern dish, with a spicy sauce filled with parsley. “It’s something a little different than your average truck stop,” Beresford says.

Lunch includes a potpie du jour, corned beef on marbled rye and meatloaf on focaccia. At dinner, there’s lamb shank with red wine demi-glacé and scalloped potatoes — a dish Beresford says typifies his simple but elegant oeuvre. “So much food today is overdone, with too many flavors going on and too much stuff on the plate,” he explains. “I want to bring out the products I’m using, so diners can really understand the product and not have it muddled.”

Contractors are hard at work building a new open-plan kitchen and full-service bar. Wolfe hopes to start bringing tasters in with soft openings announced online in upcoming weeks. Once Clean Slate is fully open by the end of the month, he thinks it will attract guests not just from the Statehouse but from across Central Vermont and “even as far as Burlington.” Time to plan a trip.

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

More By This Author

About The Author

Alice Levitt

Alice Levitt

AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.


Comments are closed.

From 2014-2020, Seven Days allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we've appreciated the suggestions and insights, right now Seven Days is prioritizing our core mission — producing high-quality, responsible local journalism — over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative

All content © 2023 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401

Advertising Policy  |  Privacy Policy  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Help
Website powered by Foundation