Taste Test: Pulcinella's | Restaurant Reviews | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Seven Days needs your financial support!

Taste Test: Pulcinella's 

100 Dorset St. South Burlington, 863-1000. Opens for lunch at 11:30. $$$$

MATTHEW THORSEN
  • Matthew Thorsen

There's no dim sum or Evil Jungle Prince on the menu at Pulcinella's. Chef Sam Palmisano, who purchased Burlington's Five Spice Café just months before its conflagration, has taken a different tack with a white-tablecloth Italian establishment in South Burlington, on Dorset Street between Small Dog Electronics and Eastern Mountain Sports.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, Pulcinella's has a menu so jam-packed with authentic Italian specialties that it's almost overwhelming. How do you choose between pasta dishes such as gnocchi di patate con funghi — fresh gnocchi with mushrooms in a cream sauce — and fish soup filled lobster, scallops, shrimp, mussels and clams? Then there's a panino made with Palmisano's dad's secret meatball recipe. It's not easy.

Slices of bread, which arrive as patrons mull over the possibilities, are a bit bland: As with many loaves served in local restaurants, the dough could have used a bit more salt. A bowl of baby clams is doused in a white wine sauce with garlic and parsley — a sauce that's a little too briny. Subtract salt from the clams, add it to the bread, and presto, they'd both be perfect!

But the meatballs in the zuppa maritata, traditional Italian wedding soup, are just right. They arrive in chicken broth with garlic, slippery orzo noodles and strands of escarole, an underutilized green in the endive family. Another winner: mushroom pizza on the restaurant's signature hand-tossed, whole-wheat crust. The hearty dough is a good match for the chunky mushrooms and cheese.

The braciole, another one of "Dad's" recipes, is a hearty roulade of beef braised in tomato sauce. The flavorful filling contains cheese, salami and slices of egg. The meat was fork tender, but the same slow cooking that made it so toothsome rendered the egg whites rather tough. The sizeable spinach salad, filled with bits of pancetta, roasted peppers and grape tomatoes, was topped with a lightly poached egg. This one was perfect.

Like Bove's, Burlington's longstanding, family-owned Italian joint, Pulcinella's is selling its sauce by the bottle. Right now, you can take home a mason jar filled with pesto, mushroom cream sauce or pomodorini. According to the menu, the last item on that list is flavored with garlic, basil, oregano and EVOO — that's extra virgin olive oil in Rachael Ray-speak. In the near future, you'll be able to get a slew of other sauces, too, along with one-pound packages of meatballs and Italian sausages. Looks like Palmisano plans to give other ristoranti in the Burlington area a run for their money.

Info:

See listing in 7 Nights, the Seven Days dining and nightlife guide.

Got something to say? Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

More By This Author

About The Author

Suzanne Podhaizer

Suzanne Podhaizer

Bio:
Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its flagship "Young Farmers' Conference." She can slaughter a... more

About the Artist

Matthew Thorsen

Matthew Thorsen

Bio:
Matthew Thorsen was a photographer for Seven Days 1995-2018. Read all about his life and work here.

Comments


Comments are closed.

Since 2014, Seven Days has allowed readers to comment on all stories posted on our website. While we’ve appreciated the suggestions and insights, the time has come to shut them down — at least temporarily.

While we champion free speech, facts are a matter of life and death during the coronavirus pandemic, and right now Seven Days is prioritizing the production of responsible journalism over moderating online debates between readers.

To criticize, correct or praise our reporting, please send us a letter to the editor. Or send us a tip. We’ll check it out and report the results.

Online comments may return when we have better tech tools for managing them. Thanks for reading.

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2020 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401  |  Contact Us
Website powered by Foundation