387 Brooklyn St., Morrisville, 888-2333
A new barbecue spot always motivates me to hit the road, even if it’s a snowy one. On my way to Yeah Baby’s BBQ-N-Grill on Sunday, I passed hunters in camouflage on their way home after a morning of tracking. The month-old restaurant isn’t far from Mo’ Vegas’ main drag. The crowd and the music on the stereo confirmed that I had stepped into somewhere far from Burlington; I was in the “country.”
The place, formerly Sabrina’s Café & Bakery, has a lived-in diner feel that suits its new tenant. Local artwork of motorcycle riders decorates the walls, but the centerpiece of the room is a display of sauces — four varieties — all made by the restaurant’s owner and pitmaster, Ted Hoadley.
More on those later. On that cold afternoon, we needed to warm up to lunch. The special pea soup called to me, even though I assumed at the diner-style eatery, it would be out of a can.
How wrong I was. The thick, carrot-speckled potage was not only homemade with love, it was done with a dose of smoke. According to our server, Hoadley smoked the ham himself, and it imbued the whole bowl with a seductive waft of the pit. It compared favorably with versions I’ve had at my favorite Québec sugar shack. If Hoadley wants to expand beyond his sauce line, the next product should be some pea soup. I’d buy it.
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