92 Stowe Street, Waterbury, 244-7300

Once in a great while, I break from the usual Alice Eats format of meals for two that ring up at less than $35. These very special blog posts stick to the spirit of the column, though. A great fine-dining deal just can’t be had for that little, but still, on Chalkboard Menu Mondays at Hen of the Wood — Waterbury, it’s not much more. My three-course meal for two came to $55.59 before tip, a fraction of what a meal costs there most other days.

The restaurant reintroduced its “locals’ night” last Monday. Last night, the most expensive entrée was the $20 hanger steak. Other than that, the service, food and lovely atmosphere of the stone culinary temple were intact. And following a rainy spell, the waterfall was working overtime to make the evening beautiful.

I skipped the snack-sized pickles and frites in favor of a trio of appetizers in the $10 range.

The salad course came first. Pig’s ear salad, that is.

On top of a pile of soft, leafy lettuces and shaved baby turnips rested more than my fair share of fried pig-ear slices.

The cracklings burst with fat — far more indulgent than your average crouton. Combined with hazelnuts and a mustard vinaigrette, it was a delicious salad, but even for me, the pork was a little excessive — I ended up having half of it packed up to take home.

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AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.