10 Church Street, Burlington, 497-1214

One of the fun things about reporting Alice Eats is sharing opportunities to eat at pricier restaurants on a budget. Many of the “price is no object” spots in the area don’t serve lunch, but when they do, you’re guaranteed a chance to try the fare without taking out a second mortgage.

More than a year after E.B. Strong’s Prime Steakhouse opened on Church Street, I still hadn’t tried it, skittish about its reputation for $40-plus steaks. Now that it’s serving lunch, I finally got my chance to get a meal for two at Strong’s for less than the price of a steak.

I got more than I bargained for. On a quiet Sunday, a friend from my extracurricular life in theater was the only server. He sent out a delicious French onion soup made with veal stock, and a complex, spice-rubbed tuna tartare and watermelon dish. The latter hit notes that clearly showed chef Brian Jenzer’s experience in Southeast Asia — it balanced sour, sweet, salty and spicy flavors admirably. But since I didn’t pay for those dishes and they would have put me well above my Alice Eats price point, that’s all I’ll say about them.

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AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.