If you think the only way to get chef Brian Stefan’s mobile Southern specialties is braving the crowds at the weekly South End Food TruckStop (right), you’ve been missing out.
Southern Smoke has become my Wednesday ritual when it parks behind the Seven Days offices at Maglianero. But last week, I missed the boat (er, truck) and needed to get my fix at the South Burlington Farmers Market on Sunday after picking up beautiful garlic scapes, cilantro and lettuce from Lewis Creek Farm.
It turns out, Stefan was feeling keen on scapes, too. He used them in the creamy mint-green sauce that painted his fish tacos in a light wash of garlic flavor. The chef has a way with fresh sauces. I still drool when I think about his lamb and quinoa burrito with spicy cucumber-leek sauce.
But these tacos were wonderful in their own way. Finely sliced zucchini melded with chopped yellow tomatoes beneath a sturdy slab of mild pollock. I usually prefer corn tortillas to flour ones, but with the fish, the skin-like softness of this one was a sensuous treat.

