Diane St. Clair only makes enough hand-kneaded butter for three elite restaurants – Thomas Keller’s French Laundry and Per Se, in California and New York, respectively, and Barbara Lynch’s No. 9 Park in Boston. But that didn’t prevent The New York Times Sunday Magazine from teasing readers with a tantalizing description of her methods. She is featured in a July 13 article on female farmers, alongside Vermont wild-crafter Nova Kim and a cadre of other hardworking, land-loving ladies.

St. Clair, who is no stranger to the pages of the Times, is the article’s cover girl: She’s pictured embracing one of her seven bovines.

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Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its...