Last week I undertook the brutal, grueling task of pairing local hard ciders with creamy, unctuous local cheeses. Just when I thought my stomach had recovered, I was invited to a cider pairing dinner at the North Hero House Inn & Restaurant on the Champlain Islands. It sounded too unique to pass up.
If last week’s exercise taught me how well cider plays with cheese, last night’s dinner schooled me in two more things: The hard, and even the sweet, stuff works equally well with savory dishes, and there’s a seriously talented chef lurking inside the North Hero House. Last April, chef Tim McQuinn — who cut his teeth at Boston’s Craigie On Main — joined the team here. (Even longer ago, McQuinn was a Paul Smith’s College alum; one of his mentors, former NECI vice president and current consultant Paul Sorgule, was at last night’s dinner.)

