Something delightfully fishy is going on in the Northeast Kingdom. In the picturesque town of Walden, Për’s Smoked of Vermont has perfected a technique that produces top-notch hot-smoked fish and seafood and creamy spreads.
A recent New York transplant to Vermont, I discovered Për’s on my quest for a quality smoked fish to top my requisite morning bagel. While classic cured lox is brined, not smoked, owner Për Courtney smokes his fish over cherry, white oak and maple wood. The deep orange color of his salmon caught my eye at my local general store. It was love at first taste: exquisite smokiness that didn’t overpower the sweet flavor of the fish.
Courtney, 65, smokes everything from Icelandic salmon to Scottish sea trout, all trucked in fresh from Boston two to three times a week, and sells them for $13 to $15 per five ounces.
My introduction began with the Faroe Islands smoked salmon. The rich, buttery texture and flavor of the fish shone through, with an underlying hint of smoke. For whitefish lovers, Courtney’s smoked haddock has a salty punch that complements a healthy schmear of cream cheese atop a bagel or a brightly dressed green salad.
Speaking of schmears, Courtney also offers cream cheese-based dips ($8.95 to $15 per seven-ounce container) featuring his smoked seafood, as well as a few to accompany the fish, such as the smoky garlic dip and a bright caper-lemon spread. The beautiful pink hue of his elegant smoked lobster dip hints at the pleasures that await. Sweet, smoky, tender chunks of lobster swim in tangy sour cream and cream cheese. My favorite way to enjoy the dip is dolloped on a smoking-hot baked potato with freshly snipped chives dappling the surface.
Courtney knows a thing or two about seafood. Born in Brookline, Mass., he cut his teeth in the business working for his father on commercial fishing expeditions — experiences that would lay the groundwork for Për’s Smoked of Vermont.
But first, Courtney made a few stops in the silversmithing and woodworking trades, making jewelry, crafting furniture and ultimately building guitars for several well-respected musicians, including Derek Trucks of Tedeschi Trucks Band. The demanding physical work caused a repetitive stress injury that finally, about 12 years ago, brought this Renaissance man to his latest creative pursuit, which he likes to call his fifth act.
The smokehouse in Walden is the realization of a long-held dream. Working with his co-operator, Nikki Ibey, Courtney fires up the small-batch smokers daily and welcomes visitors from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Special products such as maple salmon jerky are available only at the smokehouse, and Courtney offers frequent on-site demos of the smoking process, making a visit to Walden a worthy day trip.
If you can’t make it to the source, Për’s Smoked products — and, often, the man himself — can be found at grocery stores throughout Vermont, including Burlington’s City Market, Onion River Co-op and South Burlington’s Healthy Living. Engaging and passionate about his craft, Courtney loves sharing his process with customers.
“I’ll answer every possible question someone can come up with and then some,” he declared. Now that’s a class (fifth) act.
Small Pleasures is an occasional column that features delicious and distinctive Vermont-made food or drinks that pack a punch. Send us your favorite little bites or sips with big payoff at food@sevendaysvt.com.
The original print version of this article was headlined “Smoke Show | In the Northeast Kingdom, Për’s Smoked makes seafood and spreads with a kiss of fire”
This article appears in Jun 28 – Jul 4, 2023.
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