After a brief expansion to breakfast and lunch, the Big Spruce in Richmond has returned to serving only dinner, with a fresh approach from newly hired executive chef Christian Kruse. As of the first week of May, the menu at the 3.5-year-old restaurant has completed its evolution from a Mexican roster of tacos and enchiladas to what Kruse described as contemporary American fare.
Current offerings range from poutine to shrimp ceviche in the “snacks” portion of the menu. Main courses include a tofu sloppy joe, a Montréal-style smoked meat sandwich, a vegan mushroom Bourguignon served over rigatoni, and a boneless pork chop with potato gratin and charred asparagus.
The Big Spruce’s owner, Gabriel Firman, said that to be a successful small-town restaurant, “We need to speak to as many palates and people as possible.”
Firman, 50, added that the Big Spruce creemee window will reopen with no changes on May 22. “That’s hella happening,” he said with a laugh. “We don’t want to create revolt in this town.”
Kruse, 39, comes to the Big Spruce after 2.5 years as executive chef at Black Flannel Brewing & Distilling in Essex, where he received a 2022 James Beard Foundation semifinalist nod in the Best Chef: Northeast category.
Firman asked Kruse to meet for coffee last fall to talk about their industry. “We became coffee buddies,” he said. When the opportunity arose to hire a new chef at the Big Spruce, “I thought it could be a nice partnership.”
Kruse brought sous chef Chase Dunbar with him from Black Flannel.
In mid-June, the executive chef expects to launch a series of six- or seven-course prix fixe dinners in the Big Spruce’s Parlour Room. Called Chef’s Table by Christian Kruse, the events will seat 20. Kruse said he is looking forward to having “a space for me to express myself.”
This article appears in May 15-21, 2024.
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