Dining on a Dime: Satisfying Sandwiches at Henry Street Deli

Bánh mì with marinated tofu and a Belly Up sandwich at Henry Street Deli Credit: Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days

As much as most people enjoy sampling new restaurants, many of us have a few go-to eateries in our rotation. Henry Street Deli is among those for countless Burlingtonians. Perhaps a cheesesteak craving or a friend’s devotion to the Greek chicken wrap initially got them through the door, but what keeps them coming back until they’re regulars?

Henry Street co-owner Mojo Hancy-Davis, 33, believes the answer is consistency. Keeping prices affordable is also key, he added. Even as ingredient costs have risen dramatically, he has inched up sandwich prices only slightly and refused to skimp on quality ingredients, such as local rolls and housemade sauerkraut. “It matters because they’re better,” Hancy-Davis said.

Before he and his partner, Jordan Lewis, 35, bought the business in June 2023, Hancy-Davis cooked in restaurants. He plied his culinary skills at Winooski’s Misery Loves Co. and Burlington’s May Day, where he was named a 2022 semifinalist in the James Beard Awards for Best Chef: Northeast. Settling into the deli experience, Hancy-Davis said, has meant “finding an appreciation for consistency.”

The 90-year-old storefront blends in with the neighborhood, where single-family homes coexist with student apartments. College kids pop in for breakfast sandwiches on the way to class, and grade schoolers grab snacks on their way home. “We kind of fall under daily staples and find a lot of strength with offering that,” Hancy-Davis said.

I’d been hearing about Henry Street Deli since I moved to the Old North End six months ago but only recently ventured in. Why? I’m a vegetarian, and standard delis tend to disappoint. It’s hard to find a veggie sandwich that checks all the boxes: flavorful, satisfying and affordable.

Mojo Hancy-Davis and Jordan Lewis Credit: File: Abigail Sylvor Greenberg

But one day, ravenous and unmotivated to walk far, I climbed the deli’s wooden steps feeling like I was entering someone’s home for a meal. As I scanned the chalkboard menus, my veggie radar began to ping happily. The words “Sub marinated tofu on any sandwich” were music to my ears — and also to my wallet when I learned there was no extra charge. That option is new and part of the couple’s decision to build up the deli’s sandwich business.

The menu includes typical deli finds, globally influenced combinations and a build-your-own option. All are substantial, well made and fall under our “Dining on a Dime” series budget of $15. Starting at $3.60, breakfast sandwiches are served all day and top out at $11 for the Flattop Pastrami on thick Texas toast with a fried egg, griddled onions and cheese. The remaining roster of nearly a dozen sandwiches — from pesto grilled chicken to a classic Italian — run $9.99 for a seven-inch sub or wrap and $12.99 for an 11-inch sub.

I decided on the bánh mì with tofu subbed for roasted coriander pork belly and no paté. It was layered with pickled carrot and daikon, mayo, cilantro, and mint on a crusty roll from Stewart’s Bakery in Williston. Hancy-Davis later told me the tofu is marinated in soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, maple syrup, garlic and Cajun seasoning before roasting. The sweet-salty combo worked perfectly in the Asian-inspired sandwich but was mild enough that I’m looking forward to tasting it in other menu items.

To test the meat options, I chose the Belly Up breakfast sandwich ($9) for an omnivorous friend. The stacked pork belly, fried egg, sweet chile mayo, cucumber, pickled red onion and cilantro are usually paired with American cheese, but I swapped in cheddar thanks to an employee’s suggestion. My friend said the cucumbers and pickled onion added a fresh, tangy bite to the crisp pork belly. The Stewart’s brioche roll nicely absorbed the pork fat and mayo.

Hancy-Davis said structural integrity and layering ingredients and textures take a sandwich from good to great. Even though the chef has left restaurants for now, he’s still using his skills to feed the neighborhood well.

“Dining on a Dime” is a series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for around $15 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

The original print version of this article was headlined “Tasty, Tried and True | Burlington’s Henry Street Deli doubles down on sandwiches to keep the neighborhood well fed”