The Vermont Fresh Network held its annual meeting on Monday, February 4, at the Inn at Weathersfield, where chef Jason Tostrup and staff tapped foods donated by their farmer-partners to sate dozens of chefs, farmers and food producers from across the state. The guest speaker, chef Sam Hayward of Portland, Me., restaurant Fore Street, filled his Vermont counterparts in on Maine’s farm-to-plate scene.

After noshing on a welcome spread of Cavendish Game Birds of Vermont quail “lollipops” and spiked eggnog with Jersey Girls Dairy cream, participants tucked into a feast of local ham, root veggies and venison-beef-heart casserole. Pictured: seared beef flap steak from Weathersfield’s Black Watch Farm.

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Corin Hirsch was a Seven Days food writer 2011 through 2016. She was also a dining critic and drinks columnist at Newsday from 2017 to 2022, and contributes to The Guardian, Wine Enthusiast and other publications. She’s spoken often on colonial era...