On the radio yesterday, a local deejay gushed about the beauty of Butterball turkeys — namely, that the bird’s breast has already been injected with liquid that bastes the bird as it roasts, rendering brining unnecessary.

I heard this while I was on my way to Norwich’s Hogwash Farm to pick up the lanky, organic 10-pound bird that now rests in my refrigerator. Brining is a messy, laborious task; but after last year’s pasture-raised bird (from another farm) emerged from my oven kinda dry, I wondered, is this the year I finally wade into saline waters?

Proponents of brining — or soaking the turkey overnight in a salt bath — swear that it helps achieve penultimate moistness. I decided to ask Molly Stevens, the local cookbook author whose most recent work — All About Roasting: A New Approach to a Classic Art — tackles this very question, and won a James Beard award to boot.

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Corin Hirsch was a Seven Days food writer 2011 through 2016. She was also a dining critic and drinks columnist at Newsday from 2017 to 2022, and contributes to The Guardian, Wine Enthusiast and other publications. She’s spoken often on colonial era...

3 replies on “To Brine or Not to Brine? Molly Stevens Weighs In”

  1. If you use the brine to introduce flavors then it isn’t bland. I use candied ginger, allspice berries, and peppercorns. The turkey is both moist and more flavorful.

  2. …who says you have to use tap water? I made a brine with bay leaves, lemons, and fresh pepper, and I used bottled water. It’s in the oven now (subjected to a salt and pepper rub first), anticpating it will be the best yet!

  3. My Brine on Thanksgiving consisted of Shedd Mountain ale, Local apple cider, Kosher Salt, Juniper Berries, Cinnamon sticks and Black Pepper. It was the best turkey I have ever had! No water was used, and it was terrific.

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