Stroll down Main Street in Hardwick on a warm, sunny day and you’ll see dozens of people out and about, visiting the local coffee shop, dropping off a bike for a tune-up or paging through paperbacks at the bookstore. The number of busy local businesses in Hardwick is unusual for a town of its size — about 3,000 residents.
“To have four or five great restaurants is pretty incredible for a place as small as Hardwick,” said Tobin Porter-Brown, Hardwick Downtown Partnership board member and owner of Front Seat Coffee. “Usually a coffee shop like Front Seat would need an estimated population of around 5,000, but we’re able to do this because of all the community support.”
It helps that this Northeast Kingdom town draws visitors from all around the region. Hardwick is sometimes referred to as “the town that food saved” — a reference to Ben Hewitt’s 2008 Gourmet article and later a book by that title that describes the area’s entrepreneurial local food and agriculture scene. It’s a fitting nickname; the decline of the granite business destabilized Hardwick’s economy in the 1930s, and food-based businesses have popped up since and contributed to the town’s revival.
Hardwick’s appeal is about more than any one business: It’s a town where food, art and access to the outdoors overlap. A day there could mean breakfast at a local diner, a bike ride on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail or a stop at Cabot Creamery at the Yellow Barn for savory snacks. In the evening, visitors can sample farm-fresh fare at a local restaurant, then catch a show at Hardwick’s new community center, the Civic Standard, or Greensboro’s Highland Center for the Arts just down the road.
For the perfect Hardwick day trip, here’s a suggested itinerary.
Fuel Up
Front Seat Coffee
101 S. Main St., Hardwick, 802-472-7947
Tobin Porter-Brown ran a 30-acre farm in Massachusetts before he met his partner and moved to Vermont. Unable to find the right farming opportunity here, he considered his next steps. In 2018, while catching up on emails in the front seat of his car, Porter-Brown had an epiphany: Hardwick needed a coffee shop and coworking space. That’s where the idea for the coffee shop — and the name, Front Seat Coffee — were born.
It opened in July 2019 and had a very exciting first six months — until the pandemic completely shut it down in March 2020. Before the shutdown, Front Seat was just a coffee shop. During the pandemic, Porter-Brown sensed the need to do more, so he pivoted, adding a bakery. He hired another baker and began offering baked-good pickups, and he saw huge results. Now, six years later, Front Seat is often full of people enjoying a delicious pastry along with their cup of coffee.
“We do as much as we can in-house and use as many local ingredients as we can,” Porter-Brown said, adding that because of his farming background, he knows how important supporting the local economy is. Front Seat’s coffee is sourced from Carrier Roasting in Northfield. And the pastries? “We go through about 144 pounds of Cabot butter every week,” he said.
Cabot Creamery at the Yellow Barn
323 Route 15, Hardwick, 802-472-7523
Housed in a former dairy barn at 323 Route 15, Cabot Creamery at the Yellow Barn is an easy first stop for anyone looking to get the most out of their Hardwick adventure. Shoppers can purchase Cabot’s award-winning dairy products along with craft beer, wine and other specialty foods from Vermont vendors: maple syrup, salami, jams and nuts — everything you’d need for the ultimate charcuterie board — plus locally-made cutting boards and pottery.
“It’s not just Cabot products here,” Erica Burke, Cabot’s manager of retail operations, explained. “We try to stock as many local products as possible and give exposure to as many Vermont businesses as we can.”
The barn also has room for product demonstrations, pop-ups from other local businesses and free samples.
“As a farmer-owned co-op, supporting our local community is very important to us,” store manager Erin O’Sullivan said. “By carrying Vermont products, it helps showcase the amazing craftsmanship and quality that Vermont businesses have to offer.”
The Yellow Barn represents Hardwick’s long-standing connection to agriculture and its reputation as a home for food-focused businesses and entrepreneurs. Shopping here is one way to become familiar with the farms, makers and businesses that give the Northeast Kingdom its character.
Make Time for Main Street
The Civic Standard
39 S. Main St., Hardwick, 802-472-7631
Hardwick’s downtown is compact enough to explore on foot, with restaurants, shops and gathering spaces lining Main Street. The Civic Standard has added another dimension to the town’s cultural life. Its headquarters in an old grocery store building on Main Street hosts theater, musical performances, community gatherings, and a weekly Wednesday supper that’s open to all, residents and visitors alike. On the second floor, local teenagers work part time to run the Pie in the Sky Café, which serves a rotating selection of local pies in addition to coffee and tea.
The nonprofit also organizes many events around town, from softball games to writing clubs to trivia nights. Rose Friedman, the Civic Standard’s cofounder and executive artistic director, was motivated to start the organization four years ago to create and reestablish common cultural experiences— accessible, simple, joyful events to which anyone and everyone is invited.
“We’re something between a community center and a theater providing cultural experiences of all kinds,” Friedman said of the Civic Standard. “We’re kind of like a cultural office in the same way that there’s a town office for zoning, even though we’re not officially part of the town government.” The project has attracted attention from media, including Seven Days, VTDigger and the New Yorker.
Check out the Civic Standard’s calendar for the full lineup of upcoming events.
Go Shopping
Whistle Emporium and Galaxy Bookshop in Hardwick, Vt. (Gillian English)
With a cup of coffee in hand, browse a few of the shops on Main Street, including Whistle Emporium (41 S. Main St., 802-472-9414), which is essentially a thoughtfully curated treasure hunt. A wide selection of toys, games, accessories, greeting cards and other crafts is a feast for the eyes. “I walk in without much in mind and always wind up leaving with something,” Porter-Brown admitted with a sheepish laugh.
Next door, Galaxy Bookshop (41 S. Main St., 802-472-5533) has been a Hardwick staple since 1998. Walk in, and you’ll be greeted by a mural of a snowy Vermont evening, painted by local artist Tara Goreau. Galaxy offers a wide selection of books on history, science, poetry, fiction, cooking and more, as well as regular events with local authors.
And if you haven’t had your fill of food yet, stop by Buffalo Mountain Market (75 Mill St., 802-472-6020) for more local bites.
Get Outside
Lamoille Valley Rail Trail
Hardwick is also a gateway to some of northern Vermont’s best four-season recreation. The Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, New England’s longest, runs directly through town as part of its 95-mile route between St. Johnsbury and Swanton. The trail welcomes cyclists, walkers, runners, and — depending on the season — cross-country skiers, snowshoers and snowmobilers.
Rent a bike or simply wander a section of the trail. Be sure to pack a picnic, or you can stop at the Yellow Barn for a packaged charcuterie kit to stick in your backpack (also available in “kid-cuterie” sizes!). For a more guided experience, sign up for one of the Lamoille Valley Bike Tours. The Cabot Cheese E-Bike Tour follows the river, with a stop at the Yellow Barn for a gift box of Cabot products.
Riverside Cycles
4 S. Main St., Suite 3, Hardwick, 802-473-1927
In 2024, Levi Bourne purchased the old Hardwick Inn and posted a simple question to his neighborhood Front Porch Forum group: Did anyone have any interest in starting a bike shop in Hardwick with him?
Jason Bahner, Hardwick’s recreation coordinator at the time, responded. He had a few ideas for more cycling programs in town but hadn’t put them into action yet. The two began meeting regularly as a result of the post and quickly realized they had a shared vision. They opened the shop later that same year.
Riverside Cycles offers rentals, bike sales and a service department. Got a flat? They’ll fix your tire. Need a bike to take out on the trail for the day? They’ll hook you up. “We do all the basic catering needs — anything cycling-oriented,” Bahner said.
As an avid cyclist, Bahner enjoys the rail trail and the Kingdom Trails, which are also close by. “One of my favorite things about the trails around here is that they’re really accessible for families,” he said. “They’re great for all age ranges, and the Hardwick Trails Committee has worked hard to make accessible trails for adaptive biking, too.” He added that the staff are all locals who are knowledgeable about the area, so they can make recommendations based on whatever skill level people desire.
To rent a bike, stop into Riverside Cycles in person or visit the website to reserve one and fill out a waiver in advance.
Sit Down for a Meal
Caja Madera
154 Route 15, Hardwick
“This is a must-stop for anyone visiting Hardwick and looking for a delicious meal,” said Erica Burke, Cabot’s manager of retail operations. Get a taco ($4), quesadilla ($12) or a burrito ($12), accompanied by classic sides. Caja Madera also offers mobile catering and occasionally hosts live music events and karaoke.
The Village Restaurant
74 S. Main St., Hardwick, 802-472-5701
The Village Restaurant is an authentic small-town diner, serving homestyle cooking and breakfast all day with a menu of rotating specials. These are also posted to the restaurant’s Facebook page daily. Lunch options include burgers, sandwiches, fried chicken and soups. For dessert, try a slice of homemade pie. “It’s the best spot in town to get something quick,” Riverside Cycles’ Jason Bahner said.
The Cork & Fork
41 S. Main St., Hardwick, 802-472-7654
New owners Amie and Michael Wright have taken over this American pub-style restaurant. “The menu is still rockin’ and the bar is still hopping!” the previous owners, Mark Rowell and Rick Martin, wrote in a recent Facebook post. Frequently recommended by locals, the Cork & Fork serves up “handhelds” (sandwiches) as well as weekly upscale specials, local beers on tap and handcrafted cocktails.
We hope you enjoy the trip!
