Porchetta is suddenly trendy, but what the heck is it? Alice heads to Costello’s Market in Middlebury to watch as chef-owner John Hamilton prepares the meltingly tender Italian pork roll from scratch.

Want to learn more about the market? Click here to read “La Dolce Middlebury.”

AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.