4309 Shelburne Road, Shelburne, 985-3568

I’ve tasted the Eggs Fred, but this summer, the Dutch Mill has gone beyond its old-timey breakfast fare to become a snack bar — kind of.

I looked in vain for the snack-bar window on Sunday. It turns out, the “snack-bar-style menu” is served inside. After about 10 minutes of being ignored in the early-afternoon rush, I was seated near the creemee machine.

I was disappointed to learn that the snack-bar menu is only served from 2 to 9 p.m. But my old-school waitress — who referred to everyone in the restaurant as “sweetie,” when she wasn’t digging her face into a baby’s belly — was able to convince the kitchen to make me a snack-bar basket of the house specialty, the barbecue pulled-pork sandwich.

A smoker out front augured well for the sandwich. It’s not every day a diner offers real ‘cue.

But it turned out, the fancy equipment was immaterial. The pork was cooked beyond recognition into mushy strings. Those were covered in a corn-syrup-flavored sauce that obscured any hint of smoke that may have existed in the meat. The sammie’s only redeeming quality was a fluffy egg-washed bun.

The fries didn’t help matters. They managed the near-impossible feat of being burnt and limp at the same time. I wasn’t much more impressed with the side of coleslaw, which was pleasantly crisp, but seemed to be seasoned with nothing but mayonnaise and pepper.

Got something to say?

Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!

AAN award-winning food writer Alice Levitt is a fan of the exotic, the excellent and automats. She wrote for Seven Days 2007-2015.

2 replies on “Alice Eats: The Dutch Mill Family Restaurant and Creemee Bar”

  1. I have never had a bad meal at the Dutch Mill and ive had the pulled pork. The burgers also rock and everything is homemade. Perhaps you just went on an off day. Or perhaps they are just not “hip” enough for Alice and Corin of 7D. Not enough versacci glasses cardigans and skinny jeans i suppose. Trust me decide for yourself on the Dutch Mill’s Food.

  2. Might I suggest you always post a menu with establishments reviewed whether a good time was had by all or not. You owe it to the establishments one way or another.

Comments are closed.