click to enlarge - Daria Bishop
- Meze platter
Hat tip to the charmingly opinionated Trader Joe's cashier who, when she learned I was a food writer, shouted out her favorite local restaurant: Istanbul Kebab House. The spot on Burlington's lower Church Street had been on my list to revisit, but the steady flow of new eateries often trumps old standbys.
Prompted by my TJ's encounter, I shuffled my list and texted a friend to see if she could meet me for lunch.
Istanbul Kebab House tends to be a summertime destination for me, largely because of its third-story terrace — the city's only rooftop dining. There, on a beautiful evening, I might graze on well-seasoned, tender shish kebabs of swordfish, chicken or lamb (from $13.99 at lunch and $18.99 at dinner) or the juicy, grilled lamb patties called köfte ($14.99/$20.99). On a few cool-season visits, I've appreciated steaming earthenware casseroles (from $21.99) of fish or lamb baked with vegetables.
The restaurant is owned by brothers and Turkish natives Vural and Hasan Oktay and Vural's wife, Jackie. It opened in Essex in 2012 before relocating to Church Street in January 2015. In White River Junction, the Oktays also own Tuckerbox and Little Istanbul, a shop selling spices and other goods; they will open another restaurant there, Cappadocia Café, this spring. The family is also planning a second Little Istanbul in Burlington (see "Side Dishes").
click to enlarge - Daria Bishop
- Co-owner Hasan Oktay
For my most recent visit to Istanbul Kebab House, I decided to home in on a dish that epitomizes what makes the restaurant a tried-and-true favorite. To help winnow the choices, I texted a local food professional, another fervent fan, for his menu picks.
The meze platter was among a few he called "amazing." And it's true: No matter what else I order, I can never resist the housemade dips served with piping hot, freshly baked lavash bread. They include excellent housemade hummus and baba ghanoush, plus haydari — a strained yogurt mixed with garlic and dill — and ezme, a fruity salsa made with tomato, onion, bell pepper, herbs, garlic, Turkish olive oil and a jolt of tart pomegranate molasses. Rounding out the plate are grape leaves stuffed with rice, currants and herbs.
The platter comes in two sizes, priced at $14.99 and $19.99. The smaller portion easily serves two as an appetizer or makes for a solo meal with an order of zucchini fritters ($11.99) or crisp phyllo cheese cigars ($8.99).
click to enlarge - Daria Bishop
- Istanbul Kebab House
During my recent lunch, I savored each distinct offering as I ferried it into my mouth on pieces torn from the oven-puffed, sesame-speckled bread. Flavors of sun-drenched eggplant and peppers and warm sparks of chile and citrus transported me to the Mediterranean — or, more realistically, to a Burlington rooftop terrace in August.
After the lunch rush, Hasan, who runs the Burlington restaurant, filled me in on a few details. The thick, creamy yogurt for the haydari is made in-house. The nutty, lemony hummus, he said, starts with dried Turkish chickpeas, and the smoky, fluffy baba ghanoush features cooked eggplant imported from Turkey. The latter has a pleasant pickley kick, thanks to marinated roasted red peppers.
As far as lists go, Turkey is on my travel bucket list, though that trip is not imminent. In the meantime, there's Istanbul Kebab House.
"One Dish" is a series that samples a single menu item — new, classic or fleeting — at a Vermont restaurant or other food venue. Know of a great plate we should feature? Drop us a line: [email protected].
Correction, March 25, 2024: The location of the former Istanbul Kebab House has been changed to Essex Town.