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September 01, 2015 Guides » BTV Magazine

Vermont Yields a Bumper Crop of Hard Ciders

By Ken Picard

Published September 1, 2015 at 11:00 a.m. | Updated September 14, 2015 at 9:40 a.m.

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In recent years, Vermont's finely crafted and locally produced alcoholic beverages have been increasingly easy to swallow. The state's budding wine, craft beer and distilled-spirits industries have all taken off. But no local drink has roots that run deeper than hard cider.

From the 1700s until well into the 20th century, nearly every Vermont farm had an apple orchard, whose fruit was used primarily for making hard cider and brandy. Unlike grapes, hops, and other fruits and grains that are poorly suited to the state's harsh winters, apples thrive in this northern New England climate.

Yet, as recently as a decade ago, Vermont had only one commercial cider manufacturer: Woodchuck Hard Cider of Middlebury. (In these parts, "cider" generally refers to the fermented alcoholic beverage, while "sweet cider" refers to the brown, unfiltered nonalcoholic drink.) Today, thanks in part to Vermont's locavore movement and the growing popularity of gluten-free diets, the state boasts 15 cider makers, most of which got their start in the past five years.

Despite their newness, Vermont cideries are already producing impressive, award-winning ciders — fast earning the state a reputation as the "Napa Valley of Hard Cider." While you're here, be sure to take a bite.

Woodchuck Hard Cider

1321 Exchange St., Middlebury

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Woodchuck Cidery in Middlebury - CALEB KENNA

Caleb kenna
Woodchuck Cidery in Middlebury

In 1991, when amateur winemaker Greg Failing began experimenting with cider recipes in his Proctorsville garage, no one was making cider commercially. Today, Failing is the original cider maker at Woodchuck, the second largest cider manufacturer in the United States (behind Samuel Adams' Angry Orchard), producing about 6.8 million gallons annually. In 2013, the company purchased 40 percent of the state's total processed fruit. If Woodchuck bought every apple grown in Vermont, the juice would barely fill a third of its fermentation tanks.

Despite its industrial scale, Woodchuck has never lost sight of its roots. Its cider makers work closely with local orchards and nascent cideries to promote the state's growing cider industry.

In Middlebury, visitors can take a self-guided tour of Woodchuck's impressive $34 million cider house and bottling plant, read about its history, and then sample nearly two dozen ever-changing ciders in its beautifully appointed tasting room and gift shop.

This time of year, Woodchuck's Fall Harvest and Winter Chill are favorites, as is its Private Reserve Pumpkin. Other seasonal and limited varieties include Cheeky Cherry, Chocolate Raspberry, Ginger and Smoked Apple.

Woodchuck is a family-friendly destination where both the seasoned cider connoisseur and those new to the beverage can discover why Vermont-made cider is creating a national buzz.

Citizen Cider

316 Pine St., Burlington

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Citizen Cider is proof positive that, in Vermont and elsewhere, craft cider can now compete head-to-head with the nation's best craft beers. The cidery was launched in fall 2011 by three friends who persuaded the owners of Middlebury's Happy Valley Orchard to give them 5,000 gallons of apple juice to convert into hard cider. Those fellas' hard work and determination paid off. In 2014 and 2015, Vermonters voted Citizen Cider the state's best hard cider; it's on track to produce 250,000 gallons this year.

Located in the heart of Burlington's South End Arts District, Citizen Cider reflects the neighborhood's young, hip and über-creative ethos. The tasting room has a full kitchen for appetizers and meals, with outdoor seating on a large, raised wooden deck. Occasionally there's live music.

But cider remains the main attraction. "Flights," or sampling trays, allow patrons to try five of the 10 ciders on tap daily. Among the possibilities are Unified Press, Citizen Cider's off-dry, light and crisp flagship variety; Wit's Up, made with Belgian beer yeast; the Dirty Mayor, a slightly sweeter cider infused with ginger and lemon peel; and bRosé, fermented with local blueberries. The first three are also sold in Citizen's signature silver aluminum cans.

While you're there, sample the menu of cider-inspired edibles, including the Citizen Burger dressed with cider cheese, cider mustard and cider caramelized onions; the cider-braised barbecue brisket sandwich; and moules frites with cider-steamed Hollander mussels. All are unique tastes of Burlington.

Stowe Cider

1815 Pucker St., Stowe

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One of the newer arrivals on Vermont's cider scene, Stowe Cider is worth a visit for anyone passing through Stowe. The cidery, which opened only two years ago, is located along Route 100 in a former grocery stand. It's already making a big name for itself in the cider world and is primed to produce 30,000 gallons in 2015 — up from just 10,000 gallons a year ago.

Stowe Cider currently produces 15 different ciders, most of which are European-style — dry or off-dry, with tart, crisp flavors — and made using locally grown apples and other ingredients such as strawberries, blueberries, mint, juniper and hot peppers.

While the cidery offers no tour, virtually every aspect of production is visible as one steps through the door. That includes the racks of former bourbon barrels — provided by Smugglers' Notch Distillery, located just over the mountain pass in Jeffersonville — that are used to make a limited-release, barrel-aged cider. For $6, visitors can taste any four ciders available on tap and take home the glass.

Also on display is a large glass fermentation flask that head cider maker Mark Ray uses to concoct new recipes. One of the best aspects of visiting Stowe Cider is the opportunity to sample products created in the last day or two, some of them so experimental that they haven't even been named. Accordingly, every visit to the cidery is different; beyond its three flagship ciders, visitors will always find something fresh to taste. Be sure to take home a bottle or growler, as Stowe Cider is currently sold only in Vermont.

Boyden Valley Winery & Spirits

64 Route 104, Cambridge

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Boyden Valley Winery & Spirits may be one of the most scenic places in Vermont to sample cider — or wine or apple liqueur, all made right there on the 1,000-acre family farm. Located in the picturesque Lamoille River Valley, not far from Smugglers' Notch, the farm has been in the Boyden family for five generations. Their attachment to the land shines through wherever you look.

A restored 1875 carriage barn now serves as the tasting room and store. For $10, guests can sample seven of Boyden's adult beverages, including its Vermont Ice Hard Cider; Double Bourbon Cider; the off-dry to semi-sweet Royale Cider; and the new Cran-Bog Cider, made from locally grown cranberries. All are available in flip-top bottles or in "growlettes."

Boyden's four hard ciders are sparkling, crisp, mostly dry or semi-dry, and made from McIntosh, Empire and Northern Spy apples grown in southern Vermont. Boyden also produces more than a dozen wines and two cream liqueurs: Vermont Ice Apple Crème and Vermont Ice Maple Crème. While you're there, order a French gourmet cheese plate and grab a table outside to bask in great views of the Green Mountains.

Tours of the tank and barrel room are available twice daily, but call ahead to confirm. During warmer months, try a guided trip to the winery down the scenic Lamoille River with Vermont Canoe & Kayak, which includes the winery tour and tasting.

Une récolte exceptionnelle de cidres du Vermont

Les cidres savamment élaborés et produits au Vermont se boivent de plus en plus facilement. Les industries en plein essor du vin, de la bière artisanale et des eaux-de-vie distillées se portent à merveille dans l'État, mais aucune boisson locale n'a de racines aussi profondes que le cidre.

Entre le 18e siècle et le milieu du 20e siècle, pratiquement toutes les fermes du Vermont avaient un verger, dont les fruits servaient principalement à fabriquer du cidre et du brandy. Contrairement aux raisins, au houblon et aux autres fruits et céréales qui sont mal adaptés aux rudes hivers du Vermont, les pommes s'épanouissent dans le climat nordique de la Nouvelle-Angleterre.

Cela dit, il y a aussi peu qu'une dizaine d'années, le Vermont ne comptait qu'une seule cidrerie commerciale, la Woodchuck Hard Cider, à Middlebury. (Dans la région, on fait la distinction entre hard cider, qui désigne la boisson alcoolisée fermentée, et sweet cider, la version non filtrée et non alcoolisée.) Aujourd'hui, en partie grâce au mouvement locavore et à la popularité croissante des régimes sans gluten, on dénombre 15 cidreries dans l'État, dont la plupart ont démarré dans les cinq dernières années.

Malgré leur nouveauté, les cidreries du Vermont produisent déjà des cidres impressionnants, qui remportent des prix et ont rapidement valu à l'État la réputation de « Napa Valley du cidre ». Passer au Vermont sans y goûter serait un péché!

Woodchuck Hard Cider